Machine Knitting Monthly

Thankyou very much for the explanation on ‘TURN’ in Bill Kings pattern all in one ‘Gold Star’.

I must have had a senior moment. When I read your reply everything was crystal clear. I am going to start on it right now.

Thankyou again.

Janice Hill (Maud)

At the bottom of page 54 where it says TO KNIT it explains what a ‘turn’ is. For this pattern after you cast on you knit 70 rows straight for the sleeve. Then comes the turn.

You need to set your carriage to HOLD. Then you bring a group of three needles to Holding Position at the opposite end to the carriage and knit four rows.

When you have the last group of three still in Working Position knit four rows. Then return the group of needles nearest the carriage from Holding Position to Upper Working Position and knit four rows until all needles are back in Working Position. Knit four rows across all needles.

This constitutes one turn and the picture in the middle at the bottom of page 55 shows what it looks like. The diagonal row of holes runs up the middle of the of the turn and you knit four more complete turns.

To finish the piece you knit 70 rows straight for the other half of the sleeve.

You will be knitting one complete sleeve and side of the garment. If you fold this piece in half along the third row of holes you will need to join the two long edges at the top and the two shorter edges for the underarm seam.

When you have knitted two of these shapes they are sewn together at the back seam to make the completed garment.

I hope this has removed some of the mystery and you are successful with your garment.

Kind regards
Sue.

Thankyou very much for the explanation on ‘TURN’ in Bill Kings pattern all in one ‘Gold Star’.

I must have had a senior moment. When I read your reply everything was crystal clear. I am going to start on it right now.

Thankyou again.

Janice Hill (Maud)

At the bottom of page 54 where it says TO KNIT it explains what a ‘turn’ is. For this pattern after you cast on you knit 70 rows straight for the sleeve. Then comes the turn.

You need to set your carriage to HOLD. Then you bring a group of three needles to Holding Position at the opposite end to the carriage and knit four rows.

When you have the last group of three still in Working Position knit four rows. Then return the group of needles nearest the carriage from Holding Position to Upper Working Position and knit four rows until all needles are back in Working Position. Knit four rows across all needles.

This constitutes one turn and the picture in the middle at the bottom of page 55 shows what it looks like. The diagonal row of holes runs up the middle of the of the turn and you knit four more complete turns.

To finish the piece you knit 70 rows straight for the other half of the sleeve.

You will be knitting one complete sleeve and side of the garment. If you fold this piece in half along the third row of holes you will need to join the two long edges at the top and the two shorter edges for the underarm seam.

When you have knitted two of these shapes they are sewn together at the back seam to make the completed garment.

I hope this has removed some of the mystery and you are successful with your garment.

Kind regards
Sue.

The following is a neckband I have used many times. It gives a neat appearance and is fairly easy.

Instead of casting off stitches at the back and front neck and at the top of the sleeves on a raglan garment take these pieces off the machine by knitting several rows of waste yarn.

Join your garment pieces together leaving one shoulder seam open.

Hold the neckline up to the machine to ascertain how many needles you need for the neckband. The number of needles will be the number of stitches held on waste yarn plus extra for the sides of the front neck.

Bring forward the appropriate number of needles and arrange them according to the rib you wish to knit.

Cast on with a slightly looser stitch size than you would normally use hang your comb and weights.

Knit double the number of rows you require for the depth of the neckband. You can gradually decrease the stitch size for half the rows the gradually increase it again for the second half.

Transfer all the ribber bed needles to the main bed and knit one row at main tension the stitch size you used for the garment pieces.

Drop the ribber and hook up the stitches held on waste yarn and pick up the whole stitches (not just the edge loop) evenly down the front of the neck shaping.

Knit one row at main tension then one row at tension 10.
Cast off by latching through the loops either while the knitting is still on the needles or knit several rows of waste yarn at main tension and remove from the machine then latch through the loops of the last row of main yarn.

Sew up the remaining shoulder seam fold the neckband in half to the inside and catch the cast on row to the loops of the cast off row with fairly loose stitches so that there is some ‘give’.

This gives a double thickness neckband the row knitted across all stitches before attaching the garment gives a neat finish.

I suggest you try this out on your tension swatch before trying it on your garment just to see how it works.

Kind regards
Sue.

The following is a neckband I have used many times. It gives a neat appearance and is fairly easy.

Instead of casting off stitches at the back and front neck and at the top of the sleeves on a raglan garment take these pieces off the machine by knitting several rows of waste yarn.

Join your garment pieces together leaving one shoulder seam open.

Hold the neckline up to the machine to ascertain how many needles you need for the neckband. The number of needles will be the number of stitches held on waste yarn plus extra for the sides of the front neck.

Bring forward the appropriate number of needles and arrange them according to the rib you wish to knit.

Cast on with a slightly looser stitch size than you would normally use hang your comb and weights.

Knit double the number of rows you require for the depth of the neckband. You can gradually decrease the stitch size for half the rows the gradually increase it again for the second half.

Transfer all the ribber bed needles to the main bed and knit one row at main tension the stitch size you used for the garment pieces.

Drop the ribber and hook up the stitches held on waste yarn and pick up the whole stitches (not just the edge loop) evenly down the front of the neck shaping.

Knit one row at main tension then one row at tension 10.
Cast off by latching through the loops either while the knitting is still on the needles or knit several rows of waste yarn at main tension and remove from the machine then latch through the loops of the last row of main yarn.

Sew up the remaining shoulder seam fold the neckband in half to the inside and catch the cast on row to the loops of the cast off row with fairly loose stitches so that there is some ‘give’.

This gives a double thickness neckband the row knitted across all stitches before attaching the garment gives a neat finish.

I suggest you try this out on your tension swatch before trying it on your garment just to see how it works.

Kind regards
Sue.