Machine Knitting Monthly

Hi Jayangel

Waste no time in ordering an excellent book from Metropolitan written by Yvonne Knapman. It’s for all Japanese Machines and called The Beginner’s Guide to Double Jacquard Knitting. It’s still sought after by machine knitters anxious to master this beautiful stitch. Yvonne’s book contains instructions on how to begin Double Jacquard which yarn to use tension guides and how to convert Fair Isle to Double Jacquard. It also includes a basic pattern for both adults and children and the cost is just £5 including postage. Yvonne has sold all of her copies but you can still buy the book from Metropolitan by calling 01270-628414.
Anne

Thank you Anne.
On your recommendation I have ordered the guide from Metropolitan and awaiting delivery.

Thanks for your help!
Jayangel

Hi Jayangel

Waste no time in ordering an excellent book from Metropolitan written by Yvonne Knapman. It’s for all Japanese Machines and called The Beginner’s Guide to Double Jacquard Knitting. It’s still sought after by machine knitters anxious to master this beautiful stitch. Yvonne’s book contains instructions on how to begin Double Jacquard which yarn to use tension guides and how to convert Fair Isle to Double Jacquard. It also includes a basic pattern for both adults and children and the cost is just £5 including postage. Yvonne has sold all of her copies but you can still buy the book from Metropolitan by calling 01270-628414.
Anne

Thank you Anne.
On your recommendation I have ordered the guide from Metropolitan and awaiting delivery.

Thanks for your help!
Jayangel

Hello Alison
Panama is a 4 ply yarn and as such is at the upper limit of what a standard gauge machine can cope with on full needle rib. The carriage will be difficult to push across the needles as they have to cope with the extra thickness of the yarn zig zagging between the beds.

You might be better off trying a sample in 2 or 3 ply; it should be much easier to knit.
regards
Sue

Hi Alison

I couldn’t agree more with Sue don’t struggle any longer trying to push your machine to the limit using Panama and full needle rib. If ordinary 1×1 rib is a bit floppy then try 2×2 (2×1 industrial rib) for a really crisp finish. Knitting-in elastic used on the zigzag and circular rows only will give a neat tight edge. Panama is a beautiful yarn and your machine is a valuable asset. Enjoy both without asking either of them to perform the impossible.
Happy Knitting! Anne

Hello Alison
Panama is a 4 ply yarn and as such is at the upper limit of what a standard gauge machine can cope with on full needle rib. The carriage will be difficult to push across the needles as they have to cope with the extra thickness of the yarn zig zagging between the beds.

You might be better off trying a sample in 2 or 3 ply; it should be much easier to knit.
regards
Sue

Hi Alison

I couldn’t agree more with Sue don’t struggle any longer trying to push your machine to the limit using Panama and full needle rib. If ordinary 1×1 rib is a bit floppy then try 2×2 (2×1 industrial rib) for a really crisp finish. Knitting-in elastic used on the zigzag and circular rows only will give a neat tight edge. Panama is a beautiful yarn and your machine is a valuable asset. Enjoy both without asking either of them to perform the impossible.
Happy Knitting! Anne

Hi Peggyp
Welcome back!
You need to knit a tension swatch with the yarn you are going to use for your garment in the same stitch as you will use e.g. stocking stitch tuck etc. Your machine manual will give you the instructions.
Once knitted remove it from the machine and roll it up and give it a gentle pull lengthways.
If you will press the finished garment press your tension swatch. If you are using an oiled yarn wash it and allow it to dry. If not allow it to rest for a few hours or overnight before you measure it.
Once it is ready lay it flat and place the end of the green rule with ‘S’ on it against your lefthand
marked stitch. The mark on the rule at the other marked stitch will give you the number of stitches to 10cm. Turn the rule over and place the end with ‘R’ on it over the last row of main yarn and read off the number of rows to 10cm at the beginning of the section of main yarn. You can now use these readings to calculate how many stitches and rows you need to knit.
For example say your readings are 28 stitches and 40 rows to 10cm and you want to knit a piece 24cm x 19cm.
Multiply 24 x 2.8 to get the number of stitches to cast on and 19 x 4 to get the number of rows to knit.
Hope this helps
regards
Sue.

Hi Peggy

You might find the following useful.

THE GREEN RULER
This is an excellent way of measuring the stitch and row tension of machine knitted swatches. It is as accurate as most machine knitters require and can be used on all machines. This formula is used regardless of the stitch pattern used. Start by knitting a swatch in the fabric you’d like to use for your garment. This is simply to determine the tension dial number you need to use for the swatch.

TO MAKE A TENSION SWATCH
Set machine at tension selected above (MT). Make a note of tension and keep it safe!
Push 35 Ns at right and left of centre 0 to WP (70 Ns). This number is flexible but must be over 60.
Transfer 21st stitch at each side of centre 0 to adjacent N and push empty Ns to NWP. This leaves 40 Ns in WP at centre of machine and will create a ladder at each side of 40 stitches.
Using MT and WY cast on and K a few rows ending with carriage at right.
Change to MY and set RC at 000.
Using MT and MY K 20 rows in the stitch pattern to be used for your garment.
Using WY in a good contrast colour K 2 rows stocking stitch.
Change back to MY and pattern and K 60 rows.
Using WY in a good contrast colour K 2 rows stocking stitch.
Change back to MY and pattern and K 20 rows.
Using WY K a few rows and release from machine.

Pull the swatch gently to close up the stitches and then treat the swatch as you will treat your finished garment. Wash and dry cotton Lamb’s Wool Shetland and Cashmere yarns and do not press acrylic unless you intend ‘killing’ the fabric. Leave the swatch for at least four hours or preferably overnight before measuring.

MEASURING STITCHES
Lay the Green Ruler with the end marked ‘S’ on the stitch immediately inside the left ladder. The number shown on the gauge on the last stitch before the right ladder gives the number of stitches to 10 cm or 4 inches.

MEASURING THE ROWS
Lay the Green Ruler with the end marked ‘R’ on the row immediately above the first two contrast rows. The number shown on the gauge next to the row before the last two contrast rows gives the number of rows to 10 cm or 4 inches.

Best wishes from Anne at MKM

Hi Peggyp
Welcome back!
You need to knit a tension swatch with the yarn you are going to use for your garment in the same stitch as you will use e.g. stocking stitch tuck etc. Your machine manual will give you the instructions.
Once knitted remove it from the machine and roll it up and give it a gentle pull lengthways.
If you will press the finished garment press your tension swatch. If you are using an oiled yarn wash it and allow it to dry. If not allow it to rest for a few hours or overnight before you measure it.
Once it is ready lay it flat and place the end of the green rule with ‘S’ on it against your lefthand
marked stitch. The mark on the rule at the other marked stitch will give you the number of stitches to 10cm. Turn the rule over and place the end with ‘R’ on it over the last row of main yarn and read off the number of rows to 10cm at the beginning of the section of main yarn. You can now use these readings to calculate how many stitches and rows you need to knit.
For example say your readings are 28 stitches and 40 rows to 10cm and you want to knit a piece 24cm x 19cm.
Multiply 24 x 2.8 to get the number of stitches to cast on and 19 x 4 to get the number of rows to knit.
Hope this helps
regards
Sue.

Hi Peggy

You might find the following useful.

THE GREEN RULER
This is an excellent way of measuring the stitch and row tension of machine knitted swatches. It is as accurate as most machine knitters require and can be used on all machines. This formula is used regardless of the stitch pattern used. Start by knitting a swatch in the fabric you’d like to use for your garment. This is simply to determine the tension dial number you need to use for the swatch.

TO MAKE A TENSION SWATCH
Set machine at tension selected above (MT). Make a note of tension and keep it safe!
Push 35 Ns at right and left of centre 0 to WP (70 Ns). This number is flexible but must be over 60.
Transfer 21st stitch at each side of centre 0 to adjacent N and push empty Ns to NWP. This leaves 40 Ns in WP at centre of machine and will create a ladder at each side of 40 stitches.
Using MT and WY cast on and K a few rows ending with carriage at right.
Change to MY and set RC at 000.
Using MT and MY K 20 rows in the stitch pattern to be used for your garment.
Using WY in a good contrast colour K 2 rows stocking stitch.
Change back to MY and pattern and K 60 rows.
Using WY in a good contrast colour K 2 rows stocking stitch.
Change back to MY and pattern and K 20 rows.
Using WY K a few rows and release from machine.

Pull the swatch gently to close up the stitches and then treat the swatch as you will treat your finished garment. Wash and dry cotton Lamb’s Wool Shetland and Cashmere yarns and do not press acrylic unless you intend ‘killing’ the fabric. Leave the swatch for at least four hours or preferably overnight before measuring.

MEASURING STITCHES
Lay the Green Ruler with the end marked ‘S’ on the stitch immediately inside the left ladder. The number shown on the gauge on the last stitch before the right ladder gives the number of stitches to 10 cm or 4 inches.

MEASURING THE ROWS
Lay the Green Ruler with the end marked ‘R’ on the row immediately above the first two contrast rows. The number shown on the gauge next to the row before the last two contrast rows gives the number of rows to 10 cm or 4 inches.

Best wishes from Anne at MKM