Beginner – What machine should I look at?

Hi

I’ve been a hand knitter for years and would like to try my hand at machine knitting. I think I’d like to look at fine gauge knitting for using fine yarns to make shawls, scarves and the like. There seems to be loads for sale on eBay, but with no detailed descriptions. I don’t have much space at home so something that’s portable, easy to store and simple to use would be great. Can anyone help me?

Thank you in advance

Tracey

Dear Tracey

Brother Toyota and Silver Reed/Knitmaster standard gauge machines will all knit a variety of yarns from very fine to 4-ply or a soft Double Knitting thickness.

Brother made various models; the electronic machines have numbers starting with KH9. The later manual machines have numbers starting with KH8. In both cases and as a general guide the higher the number the later the model. Most of these models have a punchcard patterning mechanism. www.scanthecat.com has a lot of information about Brother machines.

The later models of Toyota are the KS901 and KS950 – both punchcard machines. I have a KS901 and it knits fine yarns beautifully.

Silver Reed/Knitmaster produced a variety of machines too. The older models have numbers starting with 3. Older electronic machines have numbers starting with 5. The more recent punchcard models are the SK280 (standard gauge) and SK270 (fine gauge machine with more needles) and there are two electronics – the SK840 standard gauge and SK830 fine gauge.

All of the above machines are about 41″ wide and it’s best to set them up and leave them out ready for use. If you do need to pack a machine away all of its tools fit neatly within a lid which clamps on to the machine. It can then be stored under a bed or behind a settee. If you know what to look for you can get a good buy on eBay. However look for a machine which has been well looked after preferably serviced and with a new sponge bar (needle retention bar). This holds the needles in place and makes for smooth knitting. Avoid any adverts which show all the accessories bundled into a box! There are some guides on eBay on what to look out for when buying a secondhand machine.

I hope this gives you a few pointers and that you find a machine that you are happy with.

Kind regards Sue

Sue P
2010-08-09 19:04:13
Hi
I have a Toyota KS901 and have had it for 20 years. I knit a while and then put it away until the mood hits again. Right now I’m getting it out again after several years and finding out that all my sources of information have closed down. I love my machine and have never had any problems with it. I’m also looking for a ribber to go with it and a good internet support group to help me learn new things. I love the speed of the machine for large pieces and then add hand embellishments. It’s also easier on hands with arthritis.
Good luck in your search.
Dianne
DiAnne4Gs
2012-01-05 20:29:59
Hi Dianne

Machine Knitting Monthly is the only knitting magazine magazine published in the UK. Anne provides a good mix of patterns and technical advice in each issue – it’s well worth getting every month.

There are several Internet groups on Yahoo and Ravelry.

Ebay UK have a large section of machine knitting related items.

The KS901 takes the KR501 or the KR560 ribbers.

Hope this helps you find what you are looking for.

Regards
Sue.

Sue P
2012-01-05 23:54:21

Shaping Armholes

Hi G

There’s not a problem but just think for a minute about what you’ve asked. ‘After you cast off 5 sts at beg of next 2 rows . . .’

If your carriage is at the right at the start of the armhole shaping you cast off 5 sts and knit the row from right to left (1 row) then cast off 5 sts and knit the row from left to right (1 row). Two rows have been knitted and the carriage is back at the right to start the decreasing.

That’s all there is to it!

Best wishes
Anne

Anne
2010-07-22 10:03:04
Thanks Anne
g
2010-08-31 13:36:23
Hi G

There’s not a problem but just think for a minute about what you’ve asked. ‘After you cast off 5 sts at beg of next 2 rows . . .’

If your carriage is at the right at the start of the armhole shaping you cast off 5 sts and knit the row from right to left (1 row) then cast off 5 sts and knit the row from left to right (1 row). Two rows have been knitted and the carriage is back at the right to start the decreasing.

That’s all there is to it!

Best wishes
Anne

Anne
2010-07-22 10:03:04
Thanks Anne
g
2010-08-31 13:36:23

Machine Knitting Magazine from Dec 1979

I have just returned to machine knitting after a gap of 20 years and my memory is not what it was! I have two punched cards, which I once used to make a baby shawl in a tuck lace effect stitch. I cannot recall the needle settings but I do know the pattern came from Machine Knitting something, in the December 1979 issue.

Does anyone have a copy? It was a square shawl, the centre being knit from one card and the edges from another.

Angela Reed

Dear Angela

The pattern diagram gives the total depth of the armhole as D = 19 [21.25 23.5] cm. In the pattern the armhole shaping is worked over 30 [34 34] rows which works out at about 7 cm for the first size and about 8 cm for the second and third sizes.

The straight section is therefore 12 [13.25 15.5] cm or thereabouts. I hope this helps you draw the pattern on your Knit Radar. Having just checked through the other patterns in MKM the total armhole depth is always measurement D.

Kind regards
Sue

Sue P
2010-07-30 11:59:52
Hi Sue

Following on from your answer may I ask another question? I too am confused about this part of the shaping when transferring to the Knit Leader. I have never used mine.

If I want to copy a pattern from MKM which for example is sized for DK and I want to knit in 4-ply – how do I transfer the measurement so I get the correct size from 4-ply wool onto the charting device? Can you also explain how I draw the armhole curve shoulder shaping and neckline to ensure that my decreases are correct? Thank you so much.

Mary

scary007
2010-07-30 11:58:37
Dear Angela

The pattern diagram gives the total depth of the armhole as D = 19 [21.25 23.5] cm. In the pattern the armhole shaping is worked over 30 [34 34] rows which works out at about 7 cm for the first size and about 8 cm for the second and third sizes.

The straight section is therefore 12 [13.25 15.5] cm or thereabouts. I hope this helps you draw the pattern on your Knit Radar. Having just checked through the other patterns in MKM the total armhole depth is always measurement D.

Kind regards
Sue

Sue P
2010-07-30 11:59:52
Hi Sue

Following on from your answer may I ask another question? I too am confused about this part of the shaping when transferring to the Knit Leader. I have never used mine.

If I want to copy a pattern from MKM which for example is sized for DK and I want to knit in 4-ply – how do I transfer the measurement so I get the correct size from 4-ply wool onto the charting device? Can you also explain how I draw the armhole curve shoulder shaping and neckline to ensure that my decreases are correct? Thank you so much.

Mary

scary007
2010-07-30 11:58:37

Guild of Machine Knitters’ Weekend of Workshops and Lecture

The Slip Stitch ‘hands-on’ workshop investigates slip stitch, especially petal slip stitch and other related highly textured fabrics. Participants must bring their own knitting machine, table and accessories.

For the Mixed Media ‘hands-on’ workshop, Denise Musk says that this will be challenging for anyone not familiar with using their sewing machine in combination with machine knitted fabric. However, it does stimulate individuals to try out new techniques. It’s essential that a sewing machine is in full working order and that the operator knows how to thread and use it, as there will not be time for Denise to set up machines which the user does not understand. Participants must bring their sewing machine, threads, accessories and so on. Village hall tables will be available.

During the Mixed Media lecture, Denise will show garments made over the last few years using many combinations of machine knitting, crochet, machine embroidery, fabric painting, embellishment and other relevant textile crafts. Denise also invites knitters to raise any topical related subject for general discussion. This is not a ‘hands-on’ workshop, but is sure to be of great interest. For more information about Mixed Media, see page 7 of the August 2006 Guild of Machine Knitters’ Newsletter and pages 13, 20 to 23 of the August 2009 Newsletter.

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Full Needle Rib

I am following the manual instructions but am finding it really difficult to knit across the stitches. I am using Yeoman panama if that is any help. Is it normal to have to push with all one’s might to get the carriage to go across – I’m afraid of damaging the machine? I’ve increased the tensions but this doesn’t seem to make any difference.

Can anyone help me?
Many thanks.

Hello Alison
Panama is a 4 ply yarn and as such is at the upper limit of what a standard gauge machine can cope with on full needle rib. The carriage will be difficult to push across the needles as they have to cope with the extra thickness of the yarn zig zagging between the beds.

You might be better off trying a sample in 2 or 3 ply; it should be much easier to knit.
regards
Sue

Sue P
2010-02-23 09:35:02
Hi Alison

I couldn’t agree more with Sue don’t struggle any longer trying to push your machine to the limit using Panama and full needle rib. If ordinary 1×1 rib is a bit floppy then try 2×2 (2×1 industrial rib) for a really crisp finish. Knitting-in elastic used on the zigzag and circular rows only will give a neat tight edge. Panama is a beautiful yarn and your machine is a valuable asset. Enjoy both without asking either of them to perform the impossible.
Happy Knitting! Anne

Anne
2010-02-23 17:38:14
Hello Alison
Panama is a 4 ply yarn and as such is at the upper limit of what a standard gauge machine can cope with on full needle rib. The carriage will be difficult to push across the needles as they have to cope with the extra thickness of the yarn zig zagging between the beds.

You might be better off trying a sample in 2 or 3 ply; it should be much easier to knit.
regards
Sue

Sue P
2010-02-23 09:35:02
Hi Alison

I couldn’t agree more with Sue don’t struggle any longer trying to push your machine to the limit using Panama and full needle rib. If ordinary 1×1 rib is a bit floppy then try 2×2 (2×1 industrial rib) for a really crisp finish. Knitting-in elastic used on the zigzag and circular rows only will give a neat tight edge. Panama is a beautiful yarn and your machine is a valuable asset. Enjoy both without asking either of them to perform the impossible.
Happy Knitting! Anne

Anne
2010-02-23 17:38:14

Machine Maintenance!

Hi,
I am wishing to give my brother KH891 a spruce up – it just dropped a load of stitches off some fine lace I was trying to knit (using bramwell fine 4ply on tension 8) so I’m guessing the machine is asking for a clean.

2 of the needles are bent – so I know how to get those out – and I have ordered some new ones – and also a new sponge bar for good measure (I wouldn’t know how to tell if the old sponge bar was okay or not!)
I know the good needles need to be soaked in something – what? (methelayted spirits or surgical spirit?)
Then I guess they have to be carefully polished with a rag.

I think I’m to try to hoover out any fluff from the main needle bed if I can – and give the machine a wipe over (just a cloth – or something on the cloth?)
I know I need to sparingly rub some silicone oil over the machine (that’s on order too – but order is being delayed by snow and ice!)…

Any concise help in exactly how to complete the maintenance would be gratefully received. The machine has been in storage for a year or so. It has been little used by me – and came to me in good condition – so I don’t suppose there’s much wrong with it really.

I’m really wanting to get knitting again – and take good care of this old machine!

Put the needles in a jam jar top up with surgical spirit and a teaspoon of machine oil. Put the lid on and leave to soak while you clean the machine.
Vacuuming will remove most of the fluff but an old needle can be used to pick out any stubborn bits. Wipe the needlebed and rails with a cloth lightly moistened with oil (don’t use WD40).
Now for the needles: Give the jar a shake to loosen the dirt. Remove needles one at a time and wipe on the oily cloth checking for bent needles and stiff latches. Replace each one as you go.
Use a lightly oiled cloth to wipe the underside of the carriage.
Sue P
2010-01-17 20:55:50
Put the needles in a jam jar top up with surgical spirit and a teaspoon of machine oil. Put the lid on and leave to soak while you clean the machine.
Vacuuming will remove most of the fluff but an old needle can be used to pick out any stubborn bits. Wipe the needlebed and rails with a cloth lightly moistened with oil (don’t use WD40).
Now for the needles: Give the jar a shake to loosen the dirt. Remove needles one at a time and wipe on the oily cloth checking for bent needles and stiff latches. Replace each one as you go.
Use a lightly oiled cloth to wipe the underside of the carriage.
Sue P
2010-01-17 20:55:50