Ideas for unusual knitted items

I used a white shiny thin yarn, with some red and dark green.
Cast on over 190 needles, on a standard gauge machine, k 16 rows, a fold row, 32 rows, a fold row, 16 rows.
Hang cast on sts onto needles and cast off.
Join two ends together, and lightly press. it fitted perfectly around a 7 square cake, and looked really good.
The pattern happens over the middle 32 rows, which show; I used a holly and berries punchcard pattern sandwiched between a pair of narrow dark green stripes.

I’m new to this technology but I will include a picture if i can work out how.
I have just taken out a subscription to this magazine and look forward to receiving my first issue soon

Happy new Year to knitters everywhere.
Mannie McClelland
West Sussex

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This looks incredible well done.
wenhenti
2010-11-03 17:58:24

Help please

monthly meetings, friendship and lots more. Thankfully I discovered a paper shop with your magazine. Unfortunately it is closing and so my subscription is in the post. I have made some wonderful contacts in Scotland who have been ever so helpful. For example my Brother electronic ‘died’ even though I had a proper adaptor, but with the help of Jill Baillie and Frances Murray from the Scottish Machine Knitters I was able to borrow a standard punchcard machine. Happiness reigns!

“However I do need help again. I was knitting a jumper from one of the magazines and thought I had the whole cone. I must have used a small amount so I’m looking for Bramwell 4 ply colour Viola – just enough to do part of a sleeve. Of course I’d be willing to pay for the yarn and the mailing. I really enjoy your magazine and look forward to its arrival every month.”” Please email us if you’ve any of the Bramwell yarn she needs.”

Hi Christine

Re: “Does anybody know whether an SRP60 carriage will work on the needlebed of an SRP50?”

Angelica’s Yarn Store website shows a Silver Reed ‘What fits what’ compatibility chart.

The link is http://www.yarn-store.com/silver_reed_studio_what_fits_what.html

Regards, Valerie

Veridian
2011-09-30 20:23:59
Thank you very much Valerie, that has answered my question.
Kind regards, Christine.
chrism44
2011-10-10 19:12:11

Oh Button Holes!

Please help!
I have knitted the welt and cuffs in full rib as the wool is very fine and to this enabled me to get the correct stretch required, but I can find no instructions on how to make button holes in full rib, either in my knitting machine instruction book or the ribber instruction book.

I have found horizontal button holes, but the finished piece is too thick. I think I need to make the front bands in full rib to match the welt and cuffs but I can only come up with loop button holes as a second best option, and sew and cut on a sewing machine as a third option.

Anybody got any ideas?

Thanks
Jacqui

for sale

All accessories and patterns and keyplates for different yarns. Would suit beginner or student. £35.00 ono. (Plymouth) email cosswoss@hotmail.com

Problem casting on

This always happens when knitting from right to left, no matter how slowly the carriage is taken across the beds. It doesn’t happen when knitting on the main bed only. I have checked the brushes and they seem okay. I have sprayed the cones with silicone and I have fed the yarn through my yarn twister. The machine is in good condition and is clean. All the signs indicate a problem with the ribber carriage, but I am at a loss to fathom out what might be the problem. Can anyone help?

Thanks Vicci Self by e-mail

Twist the three strands together for approximately length of cast on. This normally solves cast on problem.
videogirl
2009-09-28 20:29:38

Getting it right

I read all of your articles, and especially look forward to Joan Lafferty each month – she makes me laugh a lot and even my husband asks what she is up to this month. Could you publish a picture of her please? It feels like having a conversation with an old friend reading one of her articles with good humour and some important tips. I enclose my subscriptions for the next 14 months and look forward to more ideas, techniques and articles.

Many thanks
Sue Frost
Huddersfield, West Yorkshire

Eye catching

One problem I have is tinnitus and I discovered that the noise of the carriage made it much worse, so I shall now have to save up for an electronic. Having done very little knitting since Christmas, the workroom has been empty. However, I did manage to finish something I’d virtually completed last year. I’d promised myself a wall-hanging and it was in four panels – two in the centre with Siamese cats (still, after 40-odd years!) and two end panels with single and double ‘ladders’, into which I threaded multi-coloured lightweight chunky. I trimmed the fringe and my son put up a long pole. I made four hangers and then we put it up on the rear wall of the living room so it draws the eye as you enter the door.

Perhaps the recession will persuade people to get ‘doing’, as we did during the war. I remember getting cards of sock darning wool from Woolworths and wherever else, when I couldn’t spare clothes coupons for ‘real wool’. We used it to make the ankle socks we all wore to save wear on the heels and toes of our very precious (and very scarce!) stockings. I also used up all the oddments of 3-ply I could find to make a stripy front for a jumper when I could only get enough wool for the back and sleeves – and very dashing it looked, too. I’m knitting very simple socks at present, because I have chronically cold feet. Cast on sixty stitches on one needle, divide on to three needles as you knit the first round; 6ounds in rib, 20 in pattern (often double moss stitch) then another 6 rounds rib and knit a fold line – purl one, knit one, instead of knit one, purl one. Naturally, if you were a purist you turned the sock! After that there’s 20 rows rib followed by 20 rows stocking stitch (what else), then divide for the heel of your choice. Finally, stocking stitch for the length of the foot and turn the sock through before decreasing for the toe. You were then on the wrong (purl) side, which made the toe grafting easier.

The trouble came when you lost a needle, because it was impossible to buy steel sock needles during the war, all the metal had gone to the war effort! To do your sock on two needles, you planned the seam for the centre back, knitted as far as the heel, then left 15 stitches each end for the heel. You continued the front foot to the toe and then did a ‘short row’ toe; as you continued back up the foot, you picked up and ‘knitted in’ a stitch on each side as far as the heel – where you knitted another ‘short row’ toe and grafted the stitches to your 15+15 stitches and sewed up the back leg seam – just like socks on the machine! It helps to look back and have a laugh!

Best wishes
Edna Cahill
Isle of Wight

Back on track

I would recommend anyone who has not done so to obtain the reinforced extension rails if using either KG88 model, especially if trying out garter stitch and lace. It’s tedious when you have to keep removing and replacing the back rail, as the garter carriage and the lace carriage both lock into the drive belt. I recently tried a small sample of this and it looked super, well worth the hassle on a small area but not worth doing for the whole garment. However, I haven’t got the reinforced extension rails and the garter carriage looked a bit precarious when sitting on the normal rail! I think that later Brother machines came with these fitted as standard.

If the small magnets on the back rail sections come off, they can be glued back on with a small dot of superglue – and yes, this has happened to me! The point about the sponge bar cannot be emphasised enough. If it is completely dead then the garter carriage will stop at the first needle in WP as the needle is too high for the carriage to move over. The main carriage is more forgiving, so you may not notice the problem until you come to use the garter carriage. A simple test is if there is any vertical movement in the needles at the business end (that is, the hook) when in WP then the sponge bar needs checking.

Also a good idea is if you are resting the machine for any significant time is to remove the sponge bar from the machine until you go to knit with that machine again. No need to do this with the Passap and Pfaff of course, but here any damaged needles must have their hooks broken off before being removed or serious and expensive damage happens to the retaining spring. I wouldn’t be surprised if machine knitting sees something of a resurgence in the recession, making a one-off garment for a fraction of the cost of buying a designer label item is a strong incentive. Keep up the good work!

Katharine Humphries
Poole, Dorset

Missing link

So I now have a Brother linker all due to MKM. I have two Brother machines and hadn’t thought about accessories at all.

Thank you for the article.
Best wishes from Ronda Green

I have had knitting machines since 1957.

I took a break for 5 years (back probs – eased by cortisone jabs into spine) and have now returned to my Brother kh970; my Knitmaster 321. All seemed to be o.k. (i ordered new sponge bars) until I started up the kg95 garter carriage. There was a grinding noise which turned out to be a long silver metal object which slots into a metal rectangle (called a foot??) a full installation is quite expensive and as the gizmo only fits into 2 slots.

Is it possible to obtain one and fit it myself? Any advice is welcome please.

Wendy (down-under)

wendy
2009-11-20 07:56:18