Knit Leader L116

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I have knitted a swatch on my brother KH260 60 rows and 40 stitches as required but the measurements between these points are to big to choose the relevant settings on the knitleader.

Can this be done or will it only work on standard gauge machines? I would be very grateful for some information.

Thanks
Kath

Hi make a swatch 20 stitches and 30 rows. Knit 15 rows and mark the 11th needle each side knit 15 more rows.
See page 45 in the instruction book. You should have stitch scales provided with the chunky machine which fit the Knitleader.
Sue P
2010-01-18 08:36:53
Thank you for that information its a great help now coming back into machine knitting after 20+ years and have again a chunky and standard machine. I’ve forgotten everything!

I am trying to find what the little green ruler is for – I can remember using it to measure between markers but can not remember how to read it and was it for use with knitleader or not the little grey cells are not working.

Thank you once again for your response

kath61
2010-01-18 19:04:32
Hi Kath
The green ruler is for measuring swatches done on the standard gauge machine – there is a blue one for the chunky.
You line up the end with ‘s’ against the left marked stitch and read off the stitches to 10cm at the other marked stitch.
Similarly for rows with the other side.
For the Knitleader you have to measure 40 sts with a ruler and find the appropriate stitch scale then measure 60 rows and turn the dial on the Knitleader to the corresponding setting.
Hope this helps
Sue
Sue P
2010-01-19 17:37:41
Hi make a swatch 20 stitches and 30 rows. Knit 15 rows and mark the 11th needle each side knit 15 more rows.
See page 45 in the instruction book. You should have stitch scales provided with the chunky machine which fit the Knitleader.
Sue P
2010-01-18 08:36:53
Thank you for that information its a great help now coming back into machine knitting after 20+ years and have again a chunky and standard machine. I’ve forgotten everything!

I am trying to find what the little green ruler is for – I can remember using it to measure between markers but can not remember how to read it and was it for use with knitleader or not the little grey cells are not working.

Thank you once again for your response

kath61
2010-01-18 19:04:32
Hi Kath
The green ruler is for measuring swatches done on the standard gauge machine – there is a blue one for the chunky.
You line up the end with ‘s’ against the left marked stitch and read off the stitches to 10cm at the other marked stitch.
Similarly for rows with the other side.
For the Knitleader you have to measure 40 sts with a ruler and find the appropriate stitch scale then measure 60 rows and turn the dial on the Knitleader to the corresponding setting.
Hope this helps
Sue
Sue P
2010-01-19 17:37:41

Beret

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Hi Susan
I have adapted my pattern that was published in the April 2009 issue of MKM.
It uses 4 ply yarn (50g acrylic).
You need card 3 or Brother card 2s – one that will select alternate needles in 1×1 rib.
I had to have the needle to the left of centre on the Main Bed in work and arrange the rib accordingly.
It’s worth doing a dummy run to make sure alternate needles select every 3 or 4 rows (depending on the punchcard used).
Beret measures 10″ across.

Cast on 168 needles hang comb and weights.
Knit 2 circular rows.
Knit 20 rows at a fairly tight tension.
Inc. 1 st at Right on Ribber. This gives a knitted st at each end of every row.
Set Main Carriage to read card and knit 1 row.
CAR reset RC 000 set Main Carr to Tuck in both directions.
Tension 5/5 or higher knit 60 rows tuck. More rows here will give a bigger beret.
Tension 3/3 knit 10 rows.
Transfer Main Bed sts to Ribber needles which already have a stitch.
Empty needles to NWP.
Tension 3 knit 10 rows – the stitches should knit ok because of the weight on the ribber comb.
Tension 7 knit 1 row.
Remove on waste yarn and latch through loops of last row knitted in MY.
Join seam.
Make a twisted cord and thread through the last row at top of beret. I find a cord is stronger for pulling up the crown. Push the top edge inside the beret as you pull the cord and tie it off securely.
I hope this gives you a start
Regards
Sue

Sue P
2010-01-31 08:39:51
Hi Susan
I have adapted my pattern that was published in the April 2009 issue of MKM.
It uses 4 ply yarn (50g acrylic).
You need card 3 or Brother card 2s – one that will select alternate needles in 1×1 rib.
I had to have the needle to the left of centre on the Main Bed in work and arrange the rib accordingly.
It’s worth doing a dummy run to make sure alternate needles select every 3 or 4 rows (depending on the punchcard used).
Beret measures 10″ across.

Cast on 168 needles hang comb and weights.
Knit 2 circular rows.
Knit 20 rows at a fairly tight tension.
Inc. 1 st at Right on Ribber. This gives a knitted st at each end of every row.
Set Main Carriage to read card and knit 1 row.
CAR reset RC 000 set Main Carr to Tuck in both directions.
Tension 5/5 or higher knit 60 rows tuck. More rows here will give a bigger beret.
Tension 3/3 knit 10 rows.
Transfer Main Bed sts to Ribber needles which already have a stitch.
Empty needles to NWP.
Tension 3 knit 10 rows – the stitches should knit ok because of the weight on the ribber comb.
Tension 7 knit 1 row.
Remove on waste yarn and latch through loops of last row knitted in MY.
Join seam.
Make a twisted cord and thread through the last row at top of beret. I find a cord is stronger for pulling up the crown. Push the top edge inside the beret as you pull the cord and tie it off securely.
I hope this gives you a start
Regards
Sue

Sue P
2010-01-31 08:39:51

Oh Button Holes!

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Please help!
I have knitted the welt and cuffs in full rib as the wool is very fine and to this enabled me to get the correct stretch required, but I can find no instructions on how to make button holes in full rib, either in my knitting machine instruction book or the ribber instruction book.

I have found horizontal button holes, but the finished piece is too thick. I think I need to make the front bands in full rib to match the welt and cuffs but I can only come up with loop button holes as a second best option, and sew and cut on a sewing machine as a third option.

Anybody got any ideas?

Thanks
Jacqui

Junies

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Where do I go from here? The ribber 850 looks okay and the sponge bar is free and all looks okay. The 950i sponge bar looks as thought it is stuck and the needle heads look dirty or even perhaps rusty. Can anyone give me any advice on what to do now. I live in West Yorkshire.

I probably can’t help you with your problem but I am a machine knitter in Dewsbury West Yorkshire and are looking for other machine knitters in the area to keep in touch with. Where abouts in West Yorkshire are you? I have a brother KH830 and ribber. Also a brother convertable which I have not used yet. I am new to the internet so don’t expect miracles.

Susan E Johnson

susan@knitting
2009-12-01 20:13:06
Hi June

I am sorry I have not replied to your emails. My computer crashed and I lost all emails and address book. I enjoyed our contact and would like to start again. Please contact me if you can. I have written a letter to go in the March issue trying to get back in contact with you. Now I have found your letter again on the magazine site. Love to hear from you again.

Susan E Johnson

susan@knitting
2010-01-16 21:15:29
I probably can’t help you with your problem but I am a machine knitter in Dewsbury West Yorkshire and are looking for other machine knitters in the area to keep in touch with. Where abouts in West Yorkshire are you? I have a brother KH830 and ribber. Also a brother convertable which I have not used yet. I am new to the internet so don’t expect miracles.

Susan E Johnson

susan@knitting
2009-12-01 20:13:06
Hi June

I am sorry I have not replied to your emails. My computer crashed and I lost all emails and address book. I enjoyed our contact and would like to start again. Please contact me if you can. I have written a letter to go in the March issue trying to get back in contact with you. Now I have found your letter again on the magazine site. Love to hear from you again.

Susan E Johnson

susan@knitting
2010-01-16 21:15:29

Sheepskin for babies

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As lambskin is hypoallergenic, it’s a ‘must have item’ for any baby with sensitive skin. There are also Merino clothes, booties and accessories all made in New Zealand. All ranges are designed specifically with babies and toddlers in mind and are completely handmade in rural New Zealand with all the materials ethically sourced and each piece made of natural fibres. For further information please contact Babies In Sheep’s Clothing, 102 Abbeville Road, London SW4 9LU E

Tel 020-7720 9159
Email them
Website

Christmas is on the way!

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We’ve another fabulous idea worked out on the machine by Dianne Bunyan and you’ll find her pattern for a scarf and hat on page 24. Diane has produced a fascinating stitch design that shows on the right side and is completely hidden on the reverse. This means that the beanie can be pulled down and worn as a plain navy hat, or have the brim turned back to show the intricate eyelet holes with a navy backing. Any small pattern repeat of six rows can be used and it really is a new technique to try. Our packed issue has meant we’ve had to hold over news from Anne Reid about Undy YarnCrafts’ move to a country park outside Lydney. We’ve also had to postpone Norman Whitfield’s return to our pages, but they’re both waiting in the wings.

Our cover design this time is from Clair Crowston and knitted in a gorgeous DK acrylic yarn from James C Brett. Marble is 100% acrylic in 15 marled and variegated colourways. Texere is selling it online, so it’s sure to be a website winner as well. At just £1.75 per 100g ball, you’ll just go into the third ball and there can be no grumbles at looking as good as our cover girl for £5.25!

Finally, don’t miss Carl Boyd’s easy-to-make clutch bag on page 16. You need just 100 grams of yarn plus a few bits and bobs to be bang on trend. There’s still time to check if there are any vacancies for Carl’s Hands On week at Metropolitan. The date is Monday 23rd to Friday 27th November, from 10.00 am to 4.00 pm each day, at a fee of only £175. Call Carol Hocknell now on 01270-628414 to see if she can fit you in. Carl will be with them for the whole week as a tutor. It’s a unique opportunity to absorb and put into practice his innovative ideas. If you wish you can make this bag or any of his designs, with his special finishing touches and expert guidance.

Get in touch

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I use to machine knit 30-40 years ago and now I have time I bought a secod hand Jones KH588, with the 8 push button patterning. I would love to write to someone who uses a similar machine.

Thanks
Janet

Probably the brush wheels on the sinker plate are catching the yarn. If it has not been used in a long while it probably needs a sponge bar. The best machine I have come across in 40 years for plain knitting.
David Toft
2009-12-06 14:29:15
Probably the brush wheels on the sinker plate are catching the yarn. If it has not been used in a long while it probably needs a sponge bar. The best machine I have come across in 40 years for plain knitting.
David Toft
2009-12-06 14:29:15

5 X 5 rib

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Could anyone please help me as I am having trouble understanding my manual as how to knit 5X5 rib. I have no trouble doing ordinary 1X1 rib or 2X2 rib but doing this type of rib is leaving me really frustrated…

Many thanks Jane

Hi Jane
Cast on in full needle rib. After knitting the circular rows *transfer stitches from four needles on ribber to main bed. Leave next stitch on each bed then transfer next four needles from main bed to ribber. Repeat from * across all needles.
Hope this helps
Sue P
2010-01-18 08:36:53
Hi Jane
Cast on in full needle rib. After knitting the circular rows *transfer stitches from four needles on ribber to main bed. Leave next stitch on each bed then transfer next four needles from main bed to ribber. Repeat from * across all needles.
Hope this helps
Sue P
2010-01-18 08:36:53

Electronic fault

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I have a problem with the Electronic pattern reading. I fitted a new sponge bar and gave it a good clean. Plain knit is no problems but it patterns in sections not right across the bed and not always in the same place. I am certain this is an ELECTRONIC problem. can anyone tell me where I could get this repaired. Devon or Cornwall would be most convenient.

Hi I had the same problem and contacted BSK. They gave me some valuable information from just a phone call it could be that you may have overcleaned the machine (If there is such a thing ) Some moisture had got into the machine. Just using the machine on a few plain knit items seemed to do the trick My fair isle and lace are coming out OK.

Hope this helps.
Gail

Gail Rees
2010-01-16 15:32:08