Knitmaster 155 chunky punch lace problems

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I have an old second hand Knitmaster Chunky 155, which I am just trying out. It has been cleaned up so is running quite smoothly for stocking stitch, tuck stitch and even weaving. However when I tried out Punch Lace using a very fine crepe yarn and both a double knitting and an aran weight yarn, I get lots of random floats on the back like Fair Isle. I checked the bottom of the carriage and all the levers seem to be moving okay. As none came with the machine, I punched a special card for this – as recommended for this type of stitch. It is totally inconsistent about where the floats appear and they seem to occur more on the left to right pass than the right to left. I tried various tensions and also double wrapping the thin yarn round the tension rings so it didn’t slip.
Can anyone help please?

Hi
Sorry to hear you are having problems. I have done a bit of research for you and found some information in Mary Weaver’s ‘Easy Fair Isle for the Brother Ribber’.

On page 66 she recommends a yarn between a 2 or 3 ply thickness for the finer yarn saying that Artistic is a good yarn to use. This is a crêpe type yarn but a bit thicker than fine crêpe. Also 2/30s singly can be used but this makes the eyelets bigger. Your fine crêpe might be a little too fine especially as you are having problems with it in the tension mast.

On page 99 of the same book there’s a pattern for a Chunky Thread Lace Top using two strands of 4 ply Acrylic as the main yarn and 1 strand of Artistic for the lace thread knitted at tension 4 on the Brother Chunky. If a finer lace yarn is used the tension needs tightening.

Hope this helps and that you soon master it!
Regards Sue

Sue P
2012-03-08 21:02:16
Thanks Sue
As you suggested I tried using a thicker yarn (2-ply) with 4-ply double knitting and Aran weight now and it is better. If I knit really very slowly this also helps as well. There are still a few random floats but not on every row so I’ll persevere with re-adjusting the tension to see if I can solve it.
I did knot the large holes with a very fine yarn and it didn’t look good at all.
Lyn
Moogie1947
2012-03-08 21:00:47
Hi Lyn

Glad to hear it has improved.

Just one other thought – what condition is your spongebar in? If the foam has gone flat it will cause problems with stitches not forming properly. Stocking stitch and other main bed stitches are not usually affected too badly but as the punch lace is formed slightly differently it might be worth checking.

Sue.

Sue P
2012-03-09 00:05:19
Hi Sue
Thanks for the thought but the sponge bar is almost new – I replaced it along with many of the needles after I acquired the machine. And as it is a Knitmaster genuine spares are still available luckily.

I will keep trying – it was the one technique that I didn’t have on my old Brother that I really wanted to be able to do.
Lyn

Moogie1947
2012-03-09 16:01:06
Hello Moogie1947′
I have just logged into this site in the hope that I might be able to help.
I have now got three Knitmaster machines a 326 a 360 and a 155. The 326 I’ve had from new way back in the 80’s which I brought out of storage the early part of last year. The 360 I bought from a seller on the eBay web site and the 155 I bought from a friend.
I discovered when I went to use the 326 that it was knitting just fine until I used a punch card then it gave some problems with floats and strange patterns. On further inspection I found that one of the memory drums was quite stiff and the spring loaded cancelling device wasn’t doing it’s job properly by cancelling the small fingers after a pass. After stripping the carriage down and cleaning and oiling both drums they spun nice and free which is how they should be.
I had the self same problem with the 360 and the 155 but having had the original experience with the 326 I was well prepared and solved the problem immediately .
Just thought that this might be of some help to you. Check to see if both memory drums spin freely.
Best regards… Mac
Mac1
2012-03-16 16:23:33
Hi
I know this is an old thread but I’m sure others like me have come across it when searching for details on the 155. I have just acquired one and my search brought me to this page. After reading the original question I did a ‘youtube’ search and found an interesting video by Roberta Kelley on using the 155 – including how to do punch lace. So if anyone else has difficulty with any of the knitting processes on the 155 the video is well worth watching. The link is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XJf9_2t2Sjs

Terri in Scotland 🙂

britlady52
2015-01-05 21:22:54
Hi Terri
Thank you for your response I know the Roberta Kelly site – good videos and easy to follow patterns too. It’s not the process of creating punch lace that’s causing me headaches. I can do that on a number of my other machines with no problem. It’s this old chunky 155 I was given that seems to leave loops on the back randomly like Fair Isle rather than knit them in. I tried a range of different yarns made lots of adjustments to the tension cleaned and oiled it and so on – but it may just be worn out and they are no longer available new sadly.
Lyn
Moogie1947
2015-01-07 13:01:13
Hi Lyn
I’ve also recently received an old SK155 – a model I haven’t owned or knitted on since the late 80s. I haven’t tried punch lace on it yet but I’ll give it a go once I’ve finished my current project – within the next next day or two. I’ll see how it turns out and will get back to you with the results and anything else I discover along the way which may be of use.
Regards Terri 🙂
britlady52
2015-01-07 14:10:30
Hi
Sorry to hear you are having problems. I have done a bit of research for you and found some information in Mary Weaver’s ‘Easy Fair Isle for the Brother Ribber’.

On page 66 she recommends a yarn between a 2 or 3 ply thickness for the finer yarn saying that Artistic is a good yarn to use. This is a crêpe type yarn but a bit thicker than fine crêpe. Also 2/30s singly can be used but this makes the eyelets bigger. Your fine crêpe might be a little too fine especially as you are having problems with it in the tension mast.

On page 99 of the same book there’s a pattern for a Chunky Thread Lace Top using two strands of 4 ply Acrylic as the main yarn and 1 strand of Artistic for the lace thread knitted at tension 4 on the Brother Chunky. If a finer lace yarn is used the tension needs tightening.

Hope this helps and that you soon master it!
Regards Sue

Sue P
2012-03-08 21:02:16
Thanks Sue
As you suggested I tried using a thicker yarn (2-ply) with 4-ply double knitting and Aran weight now and it is better. If I knit really very slowly this also helps as well. There are still a few random floats but not on every row so I’ll persevere with re-adjusting the tension to see if I can solve it.
I did knot the large holes with a very fine yarn and it didn’t look good at all.
Lyn
Moogie1947
2012-03-08 21:00:47
Hi Lyn

Glad to hear it has improved.

Just one other thought – what condition is your spongebar in? If the foam has gone flat it will cause problems with stitches not forming properly. Stocking stitch and other main bed stitches are not usually affected too badly but as the punch lace is formed slightly differently it might be worth checking.

Sue.

Sue P
2012-03-09 00:05:19
Hi Sue
Thanks for the thought but the sponge bar is almost new – I replaced it along with many of the needles after I acquired the machine. And as it is a Knitmaster genuine spares are still available luckily.

I will keep trying – it was the one technique that I didn’t have on my old Brother that I really wanted to be able to do.
Lyn

Moogie1947
2012-03-09 16:01:06
Hello Moogie1947′
I have just logged into this site in the hope that I might be able to help.
I have now got three Knitmaster machines a 326 a 360 and a 155. The 326 I’ve had from new way back in the 80’s which I brought out of storage the early part of last year. The 360 I bought from a seller on the eBay web site and the 155 I bought from a friend.
I discovered when I went to use the 326 that it was knitting just fine until I used a punch card then it gave some problems with floats and strange patterns. On further inspection I found that one of the memory drums was quite stiff and the spring loaded cancelling device wasn’t doing it’s job properly by cancelling the small fingers after a pass. After stripping the carriage down and cleaning and oiling both drums they spun nice and free which is how they should be.
I had the self same problem with the 360 and the 155 but having had the original experience with the 326 I was well prepared and solved the problem immediately .
Just thought that this might be of some help to you. Check to see if both memory drums spin freely.
Best regards… Mac
Mac1
2012-03-16 16:23:33
Hi
I know this is an old thread but I’m sure others like me have come across it when searching for details on the 155. I have just acquired one and my search brought me to this page. After reading the original question I did a ‘youtube’ search and found an interesting video by Roberta Kelley on using the 155 – including how to do punch lace. So if anyone else has difficulty with any of the knitting processes on the 155 the video is well worth watching. The link is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XJf9_2t2Sjs

Terri in Scotland 🙂

britlady52
2015-01-05 21:22:54
Hi Terri
Thank you for your response I know the Roberta Kelly site – good videos and easy to follow patterns too. It’s not the process of creating punch lace that’s causing me headaches. I can do that on a number of my other machines with no problem. It’s this old chunky 155 I was given that seems to leave loops on the back randomly like Fair Isle rather than knit them in. I tried a range of different yarns made lots of adjustments to the tension cleaned and oiled it and so on – but it may just be worn out and they are no longer available new sadly.
Lyn
Moogie1947
2015-01-07 13:01:13
Hi Lyn
I’ve also recently received an old SK155 – a model I haven’t owned or knitted on since the late 80s. I haven’t tried punch lace on it yet but I’ll give it a go once I’ve finished my current project – within the next next day or two. I’ll see how it turns out and will get back to you with the results and anything else I discover along the way which may be of use.
Regards Terri 🙂
britlady52
2015-01-07 14:10:30

Ribber for Brother Chunky KH-260

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Hi
I am returning to my knitting machines after an absence of 15 or so years and would like to find a ribber for my Brother Chunky KH-260. What is the model number(s) that go with the 260? Does it have to be the 260 ribber or will a 230 fit and does anyone out there have one they want to sell?

Hi

Welcome back to machine knitting.

You will need a KR260 to go with your machine. They do sometimes come up on ebay UK but they are usually quite expensive. Heathercraft Steeles and HKC Knitting Machines all advertise in Machine Knitting Monthly and may be able to help.

Kind regards
Sue.

Sue P
2013-11-11 12:48:09
Many thanks Sue.

Have been having fun getting my Knitmaster 580 working. Andrea at Andee Knits has been tremendously helpful.
Now my ‘Jolie Unicorn’ stick picker up has broken. Don’t suppose you know anywhere that still sells them?
Have done an internet search to no avail. Sue

suzandy
2013-12-04 16:40:42
Hi Sue

It’s good to hear you have your machine working again.

In ‘Trading Post’ in MKM Hague advertise a curved pick up tool for the chunky machines and Metropolitan have a set of wooden handled tools; one looks to be a pick up tool. Brother made a hooked tool that came with their machines Toyota provided a tool with a crochet hook at one end and a curved end at the other and Passap had the orange tool with a transfer eye at one end and a curved stitch pick up tool at the other. Perhaps one of these would replace yours?
Have you looked on ebay? There are always lots of machine knitting related items advertised.

Kind regards
Sue.

Sue P
2013-12-05 13:01:46
Hi

Welcome back to machine knitting.

You will need a KR260 to go with your machine. They do sometimes come up on ebay UK but they are usually quite expensive. Heathercraft Steeles and HKC Knitting Machines all advertise in Machine Knitting Monthly and may be able to help.

Kind regards
Sue.

Sue P
2013-11-11 12:48:09
Many thanks Sue.

Have been having fun getting my Knitmaster 580 working. Andrea at Andee Knits has been tremendously helpful.
Now my ‘Jolie Unicorn’ stick picker up has broken. Don’t suppose you know anywhere that still sells them?
Have done an internet search to no avail. Sue

suzandy
2013-12-04 16:40:42
Hi Sue

It’s good to hear you have your machine working again.

In ‘Trading Post’ in MKM Hague advertise a curved pick up tool for the chunky machines and Metropolitan have a set of wooden handled tools; one looks to be a pick up tool. Brother made a hooked tool that came with their machines Toyota provided a tool with a crochet hook at one end and a curved end at the other and Passap had the orange tool with a transfer eye at one end and a curved stitch pick up tool at the other. Perhaps one of these would replace yours?
Have you looked on ebay? There are always lots of machine knitting related items advertised.

Kind regards
Sue.

Sue P
2013-12-05 13:01:46

Pattern Opium Effects

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Hi
I’m having major problems with tension and measuring it. I could not match the tension suggested so used DesignaKnit for the tension square I had. However the yarn is so stretchy that you can measure the same piece several times and get very different measurements. Any suggestions?

Knitmaster 120 Chunky Spongebar

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Hi
I’m getting quite desperate now. I bought a lovely chunky machine, a Knitmaster Empisal 120 which I’m told was also sold under the name Singer SK120. I intend to use this to knit sock blanks for dyeing. However I can’t get started as I cannot find a replacement sponge bar for this machine. I will even consider a kit to refurbish if necessary. The bar is very narrow compared to the one from my Brother KH-836 (about 3 mm across and 8 mm deep). I can’t get my business off the ground until this is up and running!
Many thanks, Jenni Pitt

Hi

In the September issue of MKM in Trading Post p.46 there are Chunky Needle Retaining Bars listed in the Silver Reed section. The code is SR26 and the price is £33.75. You need to state the model number of the machine. However they are not listed on the Trading Post on this Website. It might be worth contacting Silver Reed to see if they are still available.

Another thing to try is to replace the sponge with some draught excluder. The brown type is best as it has a firm top and the consistency of the foam is about right. You might need two layers of it on your bar. Make sure it is well stuck and bind the ends with tape to hold them in place.

I hope you can get it sorted and happy knitting.
Sue

Sue P
2013-08-16 13:47:04
i contacted Silver – and they do not have a replacement for the 120 Sponge Bars.
If you are a memmber of Yahoo Groups there a few people with “ideas” on how to replace a 120 sponge.
Yahoo has JUSt changed their layout and I cannot find which group I saw it in yesterday.
Kari
2013-09-12 16:57:44
Jenni If you join the Sk120/Bulky Yahoo Group(very easy to do). In the files is pdf of how to refurbish your existing sponge bar. Avril
esme48
2013-09-12 16:57:44
Hi
I’ve owned many SK-120s over the years and trying to refurbish the sponge bar is a nightmare. The last one I had (two years ago) I tried so many times that in the end the metal just became non-usable. Frustrated I looked around my garage and found a thin flat rigid metal bar to which I glued a thin length of sponge with ribbon on top. I slid it into the machine and it worked brilliantly. So my advice is this: think outside the box. A rigid piece of plastic or maybe even wood that would fill the retaining channel should serve equally well as a good base for the sponge. This is a very ‘forgiving’ machine and you can’t break it by trying. I’ve just been lucky enough to win another 120 on eBay (arriving on Tuesday) and despite that one shortcoming I believe this to be the best chunky/bulky machine out there as its stitches are far more attractive than those produced on a 9 mm machine.
britlady52
2014-02-26 17:50:24
Hi

In the September issue of MKM in Trading Post p.46 there are Chunky Needle Retaining Bars listed in the Silver Reed section. The code is SR26 and the price is £33.75. You need to state the model number of the machine. However they are not listed on the Trading Post on this Website. It might be worth contacting Silver Reed to see if they are still available.

Another thing to try is to replace the sponge with some draught excluder. The brown type is best as it has a firm top and the consistency of the foam is about right. You might need two layers of it on your bar. Make sure it is well stuck and bind the ends with tape to hold them in place.

I hope you can get it sorted and happy knitting.
Sue

Sue P
2013-08-16 13:47:04
i contacted Silver – and they do not have a replacement for the 120 Sponge Bars.
If you are a memmber of Yahoo Groups there a few people with “ideas” on how to replace a 120 sponge.
Yahoo has JUSt changed their layout and I cannot find which group I saw it in yesterday.
Kari
2013-09-12 16:57:44
Jenni If you join the Sk120/Bulky Yahoo Group(very easy to do). In the files is pdf of how to refurbish your existing sponge bar. Avril
esme48
2013-09-12 16:57:44
Hi
I’ve owned many SK-120s over the years and trying to refurbish the sponge bar is a nightmare. The last one I had (two years ago) I tried so many times that in the end the metal just became non-usable. Frustrated I looked around my garage and found a thin flat rigid metal bar to which I glued a thin length of sponge with ribbon on top. I slid it into the machine and it worked brilliantly. So my advice is this: think outside the box. A rigid piece of plastic or maybe even wood that would fill the retaining channel should serve equally well as a good base for the sponge. This is a very ‘forgiving’ machine and you can’t break it by trying. I’ve just been lucky enough to win another 120 on eBay (arriving on Tuesday) and despite that one shortcoming I believe this to be the best chunky/bulky machine out there as its stitches are far more attractive than those produced on a 9 mm machine.
britlady52
2014-02-26 17:50:24

KNIT LEADER KL116

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I have not used my Knit Leader for some years and have set it up today on my Brother Chunky 260 and it will not turn the cogs in the working direction. It will turn backwards. Have had a look for anything to cause this but nothing is showing. HELP!! Any suggestions to cure this problem would be appreciated.
Regards Joyce

Carriage catching

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Hi
I’m having an issue with my carriage catching needles in one direction. The carriage operates normally from right to left. However from left to right is seems that as the needles are pushed forward and pass over the plate they ‘bump’ inside the carriage. They then want to ‘snag’ and bend slightly until they suddenly let go when the tension is suddenly released. I can’t see where there’s anything protruding to hang them up. Any ideas with this? By the way, the machine is very new.
Thanks in advance for any help.

Hi

Try taking the sinker plate off the carriage check that both sides match and that both sides are evenly attached; there are three little screws either side which hold the metal plates in place. These metal plates should be parallel to the gate pegs.

When you fit the sinker plate back on to the carriage make sure it is seated properly and is flat against the carriage before you tighten the thumb screws.

If these simple measures do not rectify the problem as your machine is new I suggest contacting the suppliers.

Kind regards
Sue.

Sue P
2012-11-24 14:43:10
Hi

Try taking the sinker plate off the carriage check that both sides match and that both sides are evenly attached; there are three little screws either side which hold the metal plates in place. These metal plates should be parallel to the gate pegs.

When you fit the sinker plate back on to the carriage make sure it is seated properly and is flat against the carriage before you tighten the thumb screws.

If these simple measures do not rectify the problem as your machine is new I suggest contacting the suppliers.

Kind regards
Sue.

Sue P
2012-11-24 14:43:10

SK155

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Hi
Just got an SK155 and can’t find anything relating to the (R) on the tension dial. I’m probably missing something obvious. Also does anyone have any tips for a good tension for handknitting double knitting wool. How low can I go on the dial and is 0 no tension the lowest you can go? Glad I found this site as there’s not a lot for machine knitters out there now.

Hi Jax

I did a search on google for sk155 user manual and found a manual to download.

The R is for when the ribber is attached if you have one. The 0 is the tightest tension unless you can move the dial a couple of clicks beyond it.

As this is a chunky machine try tension 3 or 4 for DK yarn. Remove your sample from the machine and tug it lengthways to close the stitches. If you think it is too loose tighten the tension a little (lower number on dial). If you experiment with tensions you will find out what is suitable. When the tension is too tight there will probably be missed stitches and the knitting will be very stiff.

All machines vary slightly from one another so it is best if you keep a personal record of yarns and suitable tensions. You will soon get to know what tension to try for a particular yarn and make slight adjustments as necessary.

I hope this helps to answer your query.
Regards
Sue.

Sue P
2012-10-20 18:00:21
Thank you Sue for your help. Apparently you can no longer get a ribber for the SK155 but I don’t mind I will quite enjoy knitting the ribs by hand.
Slow process getting comfortable with my new machine not helped by lack of patterns out there. I would love to do more baby things with double knitting so will keep experimenting and keep a log as suggested.
jax
2012-11-05 10:03:04
Hi again

Do you buy Machine Knitting Monthly?

Every month Anne publishes baby patterns using DK or Chunky yarn – I’m sure you would find them useful. Don’t worry if the pattern does not specifically mention your machine; if it’s for DK you can use the tension which suits your machine and use the measurements from your tension swatch to work out how many stitches and rows you need for the size you want to knit as given on the pattern diagrams. If your figures come out close to one of the sets of instructions in the pattern you can follow these to knit the garment.

Enjoy your knitting.

Regards
Sue.

Sue P
2012-11-05 13:10:37
Hi Jax

I did a search on google for sk155 user manual and found a manual to download.

The R is for when the ribber is attached if you have one. The 0 is the tightest tension unless you can move the dial a couple of clicks beyond it.

As this is a chunky machine try tension 3 or 4 for DK yarn. Remove your sample from the machine and tug it lengthways to close the stitches. If you think it is too loose tighten the tension a little (lower number on dial). If you experiment with tensions you will find out what is suitable. When the tension is too tight there will probably be missed stitches and the knitting will be very stiff.

All machines vary slightly from one another so it is best if you keep a personal record of yarns and suitable tensions. You will soon get to know what tension to try for a particular yarn and make slight adjustments as necessary.

I hope this helps to answer your query.
Regards
Sue.

Sue P
2012-10-20 18:00:21
Thank you Sue for your help. Apparently you can no longer get a ribber for the SK155 but I don’t mind I will quite enjoy knitting the ribs by hand.
Slow process getting comfortable with my new machine not helped by lack of patterns out there. I would love to do more baby things with double knitting so will keep experimenting and keep a log as suggested.
jax
2012-11-05 10:03:04
Hi again

Do you buy Machine Knitting Monthly?

Every month Anne publishes baby patterns using DK or Chunky yarn – I’m sure you would find them useful. Don’t worry if the pattern does not specifically mention your machine; if it’s for DK you can use the tension which suits your machine and use the measurements from your tension swatch to work out how many stitches and rows you need for the size you want to knit as given on the pattern diagrams. If your figures come out close to one of the sets of instructions in the pattern you can follow these to knit the garment.

Enjoy your knitting.

Regards
Sue.

Sue P
2012-11-05 13:10:37

Chunky ribber needle problem

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When moving needles into position to cast on, they slip down to the base of the ribber bed. Is there something I must tighten to keep the needles in place in the needle bed?

Hi Yolande

It sounds as though your sponge bar needs replacing. Use the latch tool to push it out of the needle bed and pull it right out. Check the condition of the foam it should be well above the metal of the bar and spring back into shape when pressed. If it is squashed or degraded you will either need to replace the foam or the whole bar. There is a company which makes suitable replacement foam for various machines and they advertise on ebay. Alternatively check Trading Post on this website.

Regards
Sue.

Sue P
2012-10-09 19:20:58
Hi Yolande

It sounds as though your sponge bar needs replacing. Use the latch tool to push it out of the needle bed and pull it right out. Check the condition of the foam it should be well above the metal of the bar and spring back into shape when pressed. If it is squashed or degraded you will either need to replace the foam or the whole bar. There is a company which makes suitable replacement foam for various machines and they advertise on ebay. Alternatively check Trading Post on this website.

Regards
Sue.

Sue P
2012-10-09 19:20:58

Chunky Knitter Model 155

Posted on

Hi
I bought this machine about 20 years ago and have never used it. I’d like to get started so I set up the machine and I’m just so intimated that I haven’t been able to get past doing anything else. Can I use regular patterns to make a simple sweater? I’m not sure where to start so please help! I’m an intermediate (but slow) knitter and can read patterns fairly well.
Thanks for any help.

Hi
First don’t be afraid! Chunky machines are great to get started on. Is there a club near you? I would try Google or go to your local library to find one otherwise there are on-line courses as well as courses you can actively go on. I’ve just returned from Hereford with Amy Twigger Holroyd who has beginners’ classes on the Knitmaster Chunky 155. You could also try YouTube. Just put in ‘beginner machine knitting’ and select from the short videos. Some are better than others. Good luck stick with it it’s a great hobby. If you’re near Hertfordshire I could maybe help.
Best wishes
kazbill
2012-09-21 14:29:58
Hi
You don’t say the area you have come from but I’ve just bought a 155 and I’m willing to help if you live in the Lincolnshire area.
rosiewright
2012-09-21 14:29:58
Hi
First don’t be afraid! Chunky machines are great to get started on. Is there a club near you? I would try Google or go to your local library to find one otherwise there are on-line courses as well as courses you can actively go on. I’ve just returned from Hereford with Amy Twigger Holroyd who has beginners’ classes on the Knitmaster Chunky 155. You could also try YouTube. Just put in ‘beginner machine knitting’ and select from the short videos. Some are better than others. Good luck stick with it it’s a great hobby. If you’re near Hertfordshire I could maybe help.
Best wishes
kazbill
2012-09-21 14:29:58
Hi
You don’t say the area you have come from but I’ve just bought a 155 and I’m willing to help if you live in the Lincolnshire area.
rosiewright
2012-09-21 14:29:58

Singer Big Nine

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Namely the pairs of white plastic hooked combs, which I believe were meant to do ribbing on the machine. I remember that one was used to pick up alternate stitches from the bed of the machine, – lift, then flip over and clip to it’s ‘pair’ resting on the front slot of the machine bed. But it isn’t quite that simple, I remember there was a ‘fiddly bit’ – which took me ages to grasp at the time, and which now completely escapes my memory. I would now like to get some use out of the machine, and try to get back into knitting generally, now that I have more time.
Can anyone help please? Does anyone have the instructions for using these rib combs?
Many thanks if you can help.
Regards,
Wren