Hi
Thank you for your help in the past and I wonder if anyone knows of a knitting club in the Leeds area?
2011
Spring is here!
Machine Knitting LIVE! in Bournemouth is almost here and our Guest Speaker this year is Queen of Posh Frocks, Ann Brown.
The Sherborne Club presents our fashion show this time, with lots of new designs and ideas.
Our exhibitor list so far includes:-
Silver Reed knitting machines, Silver Viscount sewing machines and overlockers.
Elaine Cater designer books, patterns and Knitwords magazine.
Nina Miklin kits and exclusive Italian designer yarn.
Fiona Morris machine knitwear design, craft courses on hand and machine knitting and she gives talks.
Guild of Machine Knitters – join today and support our craft.
Ann Brown yarn and notions plus Posh Frocks designer patterns.
Beryl Jarvis brings her own unique Info Sheets and teaching techniques plus the new Mock ‘V’ DVD.
Metropolitan’s Aladdin’s Cave for all machine knitters including DesignaKnit, yarns, machines, books and accessories for all machines.
MKM current and back issues plus Passap and Brother patterns and books from Anjo Designs.
B Hague & Co with linkers, twisters, bits and bobs.
Anne Baker with Karabee patterns and kits.
Arnold Bennett with yarns and button selection.
Weather and family circumstances permitting, Busy Bee with masses of well-loved patterns.
Phyllis & David Hilton demonstrate intarsia.
Sherborne Machine Knitters with amazing club ideas and samples.
Uppingham Yarns – with industrial, hand and machine knitting yarn plus superb Italian yarns.
Finally let me add just a quick note to say that we’ve re-instated the registration form with a couple of changes to see if we can beat the spammers! Now you can register yourselves, but don’t forget you’ll have to click the activation link in the email we’ll send you, which may find its way into your spam folder, depending on how strict your mail server is. If you have any questions or problems with this, please drop Matt an email.
NEXT ISSUE
Our 25th Birthday Issue
April 2011
Subscription copies sent out
Thursday 3rd March
On sale Thursday 10th March
Ask your newsagent to reserve a copy
”
I have a Passap machine and also knit on Japanese machines so here’s an adaptation of the pattern.
The needle arrangement will be the same as the pattern 2×2 industrial rib so cast on as you would normally for this rib but not too tightly as you need a stretchy edge ending with CAR.
Transfer single stitch at left to RB. Change tension and knit 60 rows.
On left bring up next 8 needles on MB and 9 on RB to WP. Knit to left. Hang side weight. Set carriages to slip on MB push up 9 needles at left to UWP and knit 1 row to the right.
Now bring 10 needles at left on RB to UWP and knit 1 row to the left. (This knits 2 circular rows on the new sts). Check that yarn does not loop at edges.
Set the carriages to knit. At right side bring up 9 needles on MB and 8 needles on RB to WP. Knit 1 row to right. Hang side weight. Set carriages to slip.
Bring 10 needles at right on MB to UWP. Knit 1 row to the left. Bring 9 needles at right on RB to UWP. Knit 1 row to the right. Make sure there are no loops at edges.
Set both carriages to knit increase stitch size knit 4 rows.
The final paragraph of the pattern can be knitted just as it is written and I hope this helps you to knit the pattern
Kind regards.
Sue
Spring is here!
Machine Knitting LIVE! in Bournemouth is almost here and our Guest Speaker this year is Queen of Posh Frocks, Ann Brown.
The Sherborne Club presents our fashion show this time, with lots of new designs and ideas.
Our exhibitor list so far includes:-
Silver Reed knitting machines, Silver Viscount sewing machines and overlockers.
Elaine Cater designer books, patterns and Knitwords magazine.
Nina Miklin kits and exclusive Italian designer yarn.
Fiona Morris machine knitwear design, craft courses on hand and machine knitting and she gives talks.
Guild of Machine Knitters – join today and support our craft.
Ann Brown yarn and notions plus Posh Frocks designer patterns.
Beryl Jarvis brings her own unique Info Sheets and teaching techniques plus the new Mock ‘V’ DVD.
Metropolitan’s Aladdin’s Cave for all machine knitters including DesignaKnit, yarns, machines, books and accessories for all machines.
MKM current and back issues plus Passap and Brother patterns and books from Anjo Designs.
B Hague & Co with linkers, twisters, bits and bobs.
Anne Baker with Karabee patterns and kits.
Arnold Bennett with yarns and button selection.
Weather and family circumstances permitting, Busy Bee with masses of well-loved patterns.
Phyllis & David Hilton demonstrate intarsia.
Sherborne Machine Knitters with amazing club ideas and samples.
Uppingham Yarns – with industrial, hand and machine knitting yarn plus superb Italian yarns.
Finally let me add just a quick note to say that we’ve re-instated the registration form with a couple of changes to see if we can beat the spammers! Now you can register yourselves, but don’t forget you’ll have to click the activation link in the email we’ll send you, which may find its way into your spam folder, depending on how strict your mail server is. If you have any questions or problems with this, please drop Matt an email.
NEXT ISSUE
Our 25th Birthday Issue
April 2011
Subscription copies sent out
Thursday 3rd March
On sale Thursday 10th March
Ask your newsagent to reserve a copy
”
I’ve just received the March issue of MKM and fell in love with Norman Whitfield’s polo neck warmer. It’s knitted on a Passap machine and I have a Brother. I don’t know how to translate the instructions from a Passap to a Brother machine. Please help!
I have a Passap machine and also knit on Japanese machines so here’s an adaptation of the pattern.
The needle arrangement will be the same as the pattern 2×2 industrial rib so cast on as you would normally for this rib but not too tightly as you need a stretchy edge ending with CAR.
Transfer single stitch at left to RB. Change tension and knit 60 rows.
On left bring up next 8 needles on MB and 9 on RB to WP. Knit to left. Hang side weight. Set carriages to slip on MB push up 9 needles at left to UWP and knit 1 row to the right.
Now bring 10 needles at left on RB to UWP and knit 1 row to the left. (This knits 2 circular rows on the new sts). Check that yarn does not loop at edges.
Set the carriages to knit. At right side bring up 9 needles on MB and 8 needles on RB to WP. Knit 1 row to right. Hang side weight. Set carriages to slip.
Bring 10 needles at right on MB to UWP. Knit 1 row to the left. Bring 9 needles at right on RB to UWP. Knit 1 row to the right. Make sure there are no loops at edges.
Set both carriages to knit increase stitch size knit 4 rows.
The final paragraph of the pattern can be knitted just as it is written and I hope this helps you to knit the pattern
Kind regards.
Sue
Dog Coats
Hi
I’m sure there was a machine knitted dog coat pattern in one of the magazines, but can’t remember how long ago. Can anyone help please? I’ve hundreds of magazines and I’ve a hand knitted pattern but none for machines. The dog is small about a large Yorkie or cairn terrier size.
Thanks
I write out an index of the patterns that I find interesting.
Having checked there were patterns in the July Aug 07 and Sept 07 issues of MKM.
Hope these are what you are looking for
Regards Sue
Brother KL116 Knit Leader & KH260 chunky machine
Hi
I’ve drawn out a pattern on the Knit Leader sheets and done a swatch with the wool and pattern I’ll be using.The problem I’m having is that there’s no ruler to match my swatch. The length for the 60 rows is fine but there’s no ruler for the width. Can anyone give me any help please?
Thank you.
Kathy
Pages 45-47 of the KH260 Instruction Manual give instructions for knitting your tension swatch. The measurements you need are taken over 20 sts and 30 rows.
Do you have the stitch scales numbered from 1-24 that come with the chunky machine? When you put the sheet into the Knit Leader and the scale which matches the measurement of 20 sts into the slot at the front you’ll see the number of stitches to cast on. You set the measurement for the 30 rows on the Knit Leader itself. I hope I’ve managed to point you in the right direction.
Kind Regards.
Sue
Thank you for your e-mail directing me to your website. Another reader was having problems as well and a reply came saying look in the accessories of the Brother 260 and a set of stitch numbers should be included. Well I spring cleaned a chest full of knitting and sewing bits and pieces and yes – there they were hidden under several books and bags of felt and all the sizes that I need. Thank you very much.
Sincerely Magaret
Pages 45-47 of the KH260 Instruction Manual give instructions for knitting your tension swatch. The measurements you need are taken over 20 sts and 30 rows.
Do you have the stitch scales numbered from 1-24 that come with the chunky machine? When you put the sheet into the Knit Leader and the scale which matches the measurement of 20 sts into the slot at the front you’ll see the number of stitches to cast on. You set the measurement for the 30 rows on the Knit Leader itself. I hope I’ve managed to point you in the right direction.
Kind Regards.
Sue
Thank you for your e-mail directing me to your website. Another reader was having problems as well and a reply came saying look in the accessories of the Brother 260 and a set of stitch numbers should be included. Well I spring cleaned a chest full of knitting and sewing bits and pieces and yes – there they were hidden under several books and bags of felt and all the sizes that I need. Thank you very much.
Sincerely Magaret
Toyota KS858
Hi there!
I’m a newbie to this and have a Toyota KS858 which hasn’t seen the light of day for many years.
Could anyone advise as to:-
1. Where I might be able to obtain a sponge bar to fit.
2. What ribber would be suitable.
Apologies if this post appears twice or if I’ve made any basic blunders, any and all help would be much appreciated.
Thanks and kind regards
With respect to sponge bars I collect knitting machines and sponge bars are always required and as would be a very expensive thing to buy (some of my machines cost less than the sponge bar required to ensure they knit) and this is how I do it I buy a roll of draught excluder – (it is smooth on top and sticky underneath and normally brown or white in colour) from say Homebase then I remove the old sponge bar and scrape it clean. I then lay a length of the draught excluder along the bar (sometimes it may need a double layer depending how thick the foam is) and I secure it well on both sides using Scotch Tape. The next part is important push it back into the machine carefully. There is of course a risk with this method ie that the sponge could come off and stick in the machine but I have never had any problems and I have done it many times. An important tip is when removing the sponge bar check to see how it goes into the machine. When the job is done the needles should be flat against the bed. Signs of requiring a new sponge bar is needles that are raised from the bed.
Your machine will take a KR501 or KR506 ribber.
Sponge bars are a bit of a problem – Toyota bars are difficult to find. There is an American website – www.theknittingcloset.com – that has them.
Some people also recommend using a Knitmaster or Silver Reed sponge bar as a replacement because they are fairly narrow.
Hope this helps.
Sue.
I have found a better alternative to sponge on the sponge bars. I have replaced the sponge with a row of 12 conical springs – the type found in AAA battery packs purchased from Maplins electronics a battery pack costs 89p and has four springs. The springs are attached to the sponge bar then covered with a length of metal tape the type found in retractable tape measures the smaller type which are usually 1 metre long and the same width as the sponge bar. Purchased from our local hardware store they are £1.29 for a twin pack.
When the tape is cut from the holder remember to put Sellotape over each end they are very sharp.
You just have to remember when inserting the sponge bar it has to be inserted upside down so that the springs are facing away from the needles. I use this method in both the main bed and the ribber attachment.
The bar works perfectly and I have been using it for over a year now and the springs are still in perfect condition. Until I created this method the sponge bar was the absolute bain of my life very hard to find and messy to replace on a DIY basis. I hope this helps.
With respect to sponge bars I collect knitting machines and sponge bars are always required and as would be a very expensive thing to buy (some of my machines cost less than the sponge bar required to ensure they knit) and this is how I do it I buy a roll of draught excluder – (it is smooth on top and sticky underneath and normally brown or white in colour) from say Homebase then I remove the old sponge bar and scrape it clean. I then lay a length of the draught excluder along the bar (sometimes it may need a double layer depending how thick the foam is) and I secure it well on both sides using Scotch Tape. The next part is important push it back into the machine carefully. There is of course a risk with this method ie that the sponge could come off and stick in the machine but I have never had any problems and I have done it many times. An important tip is when removing the sponge bar check to see how it goes into the machine. When the job is done the needles should be flat against the bed. Signs of requiring a new sponge bar is needles that are raised from the bed.
Your machine will take a KR501 or KR506 ribber.
Sponge bars are a bit of a problem – Toyota bars are difficult to find. There is an American website – www.theknittingcloset.com – that has them.
Some people also recommend using a Knitmaster or Silver Reed sponge bar as a replacement because they are fairly narrow.
Hope this helps.
Sue.
I have found a better alternative to sponge on the sponge bars. I have replaced the sponge with a row of 12 conical springs – the type found in AAA battery packs purchased from Maplins electronics a battery pack costs 89p and has four springs. The springs are attached to the sponge bar then covered with a length of metal tape the type found in retractable tape measures the smaller type which are usually 1 metre long and the same width as the sponge bar. Purchased from our local hardware store they are £1.29 for a twin pack.
When the tape is cut from the holder remember to put Sellotape over each end they are very sharp.
You just have to remember when inserting the sponge bar it has to be inserted upside down so that the springs are facing away from the needles. I use this method in both the main bed and the ribber attachment.
The bar works perfectly and I have been using it for over a year now and the springs are still in perfect condition. Until I created this method the sponge bar was the absolute bain of my life very hard to find and messy to replace on a DIY basis. I hope this helps.
Help with ribber
Thank you.
Barbara
You don’t say the make of your machine. If you have a Toyota you push the ribber hard against the main bed before tightening the screws which hold it in place.
For a Brother machine there are adjusting nuts and levers at both ends of the ribber. You’ll be able to see them if you drop the ribber. Check the height of the ribber by pushing it up as far as it will go. Bring several needles at each end of the main bed to holding position. You should be able to slide two of the ribber weight hooks together (flat shiny things with a hole in one end and hooks at the other) between the main bed needles and ribber sinker posts. They should be a snug fit but should not move the needles as you slide them in. To adjust the height drop the ribber loosen the nuts and use the levers to move it up or down. Check the gap and once you have it right re-tighten the nuts but make sure that the levers don’t move. It’s fiddly but with a bit of practise you should be able to get it right.
For adjustments to Silver Reed and Knitmaster machines Mary Weaver has a comprehensive explanation in her book – The Ribbing Attachment Part 2. I hope this helps you sort out the problem.
Kind regards
Sue
You don’t say the make of your machine. If you have a Toyota you push the ribber hard against the main bed before tightening the screws which hold it in place.
For a Brother machine there are adjusting nuts and levers at both ends of the ribber. You’ll be able to see them if you drop the ribber. Check the height of the ribber by pushing it up as far as it will go. Bring several needles at each end of the main bed to holding position. You should be able to slide two of the ribber weight hooks together (flat shiny things with a hole in one end and hooks at the other) between the main bed needles and ribber sinker posts. They should be a snug fit but should not move the needles as you slide them in. To adjust the height drop the ribber loosen the nuts and use the levers to move it up or down. Check the gap and once you have it right re-tighten the nuts but make sure that the levers don’t move. It’s fiddly but with a bit of practise you should be able to get it right.
For adjustments to Silver Reed and Knitmaster machines Mary Weaver has a comprehensive explanation in her book – The Ribbing Attachment Part 2. I hope this helps you sort out the problem.
Kind regards
Sue
PM10 automatic punching machine
I’m hopeless at using an ordinary punch, making lots of mistakes and getting very frustrated!! I’ve seen one of these punching machines and been told they’re very efficient. I’m prepared to pay a realistic price for one and please contact me by phone on 01886-832566 or e-mail if you can help.
Many thanks
Jacky Pye
Bead Accessories
Hi
I saw a lady at Machine Knitting LIVE! at Croydon using an accessory to put beads on to the needles. Can someone please tell me where I can buy one?
Many thanks.
Gayle
A fine crochet hook small enough to thread the beads on works well.
You thread a bead onto the crochet hook unhook the stitch slide the bead over the stitch and hook it back on to the needle.
Hope you are successful!
Regards Sue.
Thanks for the tips and I would like to see the tools in eBay. Maybe it can help me to find an easier way to do this.
I’ve just noticed there is one of these tools on eBay.uk at the moment. Item number: 200569562149
Thought you might be interested
Sue.
You put the bead on the hook and slip the stitch onto the hook bringing it through the bead then replace the stitch onto the same latch on the machine .
hope this is helpfull Maree
A fine crochet hook small enough to thread the beads on works well.
You thread a bead onto the crochet hook unhook the stitch slide the bead over the stitch and hook it back on to the needle.
Hope you are successful!
Regards Sue.
Thanks for the tips and I would like to see the tools in eBay. Maybe it can help me to find an easier way to do this.
I’ve just noticed there is one of these tools on eBay.uk at the moment. Item number: 200569562149
Thought you might be interested
Sue.
You put the bead on the hook and slip the stitch onto the hook bringing it through the bead then replace the stitch onto the same latch on the machine .
hope this is helpfull Maree
FC6 Fair Isle carriage wanted
Many thanks.
Barbara
Donna
Regards Nancy
I’ve just received the March issue of MKM and fell in love with Norman Whitfield’s polo neck warmer. It’s knitted on a Passap machine and I have a Brother. I don’t know how to translate the instructions from a Passap to a Brother machine. Please help!