Float on

Dear Anne

I design a lot of my own punchcards and on my chunky machine, six-stitch floats are a bit long for a neat finish on the back of my work. Worse still are those even longer floats, which are sometimes unavoidable. There’s a limit to how many ‘odd dots’ I can put in here and there without spoiling the effect, so do you have any ideas? Many thanks and Happy New Year to one and all. Best wishes, Maggie

Thanks for asking Maggie and the usual thing we do is pick up the loops. After knitting the row that creates the long floats, use a single transfer tool to lift the middle of the float onto the needle above it. Push the appropriate needle forward, but not too far out of working position. Place the long loop in the open hook along with the newly-formed stitch, then push the needle back in line. If the float falls in a similar place on subsequent rows, don’t use the same needle each time. Move to an adjacent needle left or right so the loops are staggered and this will give a smoother result. Simply knit across the next row in the usual way. You should find that the long loops are safely caught up and their length is effectively halved. Using chunky weight yarn and a Fair Isle pattern, it’s almost undetectable from the front. As it’s done as you go along, there’s not much extra work. If there aren’t too many rows with long floats, you can always mark the punchcard so you’ll know when to stop.

Chase a rainbow

Dear Anne

As I’m fortunate enough to own a freestanding linker, I do a lot of stitch-to-stitch joining when making up garments. I’ve always found it easiest to work using a nylon cord for the first row of waste knitting, so I bought two of the multi-coloured packs to make sure I don’t run out. Last May, our daughter presented us with twin grandsons, so I’d lots of little garments to make. I found that I was constantly tripping over the ends of the ravel cords. So I cut both yellow cords into quarters, the pink cords into thirds and the green cords into half, leaving the blue and white cords full length. This gives me lots of versatility and I can easily identify the length by the colour. Yours sincerely, Judith

Card trick

Dear Anne Since my husband died I’ve had to cut back, so I’ve been saving birthday and Christmas cards to make my own gift tags. I know some punches will cut straight through, but others need a small hole pierced with a pin before they’ll do the job. I tie them on with a bit of fancy Lurex yarn. I keep the punch sharp by simply punching holes in fine sandpaper. As Joan Lafferty would say: “The oldies are always the best”! I’ve many fond memories of her and love her articles in the magazine. Sincerely, Joyce in Horsham, not far from where Joan lived

Drop shot

Dear Anne

The other day I’d just come to the very last row of a fairly complicated Fair Isle when the lot dropped off the machine! As we all know, hooking it all back pulls on the stitches so I held the knitting carefully. I threaded a bodkin (wool needle) with nylon cord and carefully eased it through each stitch, before hooking it all back on the machine. It worked really well, as the nylon cord slid smoothly through the stitches without pulling. It’s definitely an idea to put in the memory bank. Best wishes, Claudia in Epson

Shut eye

Hi Anne

Shut your eyes and ears please, but this might help another reader. Having just finished carefully punching out a card recently, it then fell on the floor. When I moved to pick it up, it got caught under the metal leg of my chair and was badly creased. However, I saved it with my iron. I carefully used a light and even pressure, with the iron on a cool setting and a piece of paper over the punchcard. It was only the long time I spent punching it that gave me the courage to have a go and it’s been fine in the machine. Keep up the good work. Best wishes, Sue in Maidstone

Black hole

Dear Anne

At the moment I’m knitting a black cardigan and have decided to make horizontal buttonholes. My eyesight isn’t too good, so I experimented with the awkward row where I have to transfer the stitch from Needle 2 to Needle 1, then return both stitches to Needle 2. The next step is the difficult part for me on black wool, lifting the stitch from the first needle over the second stitch to form a new stitch. I’ve found it easier to put Needle 1 of the buttonhole into holding position, take the stitch from Needle 2 and slip it in the hook of Needle 1. All that needs to be done then is to take Needle 1 back into working position to form a new stitch, then transfer this new stitch to Needle 2. It sounds very complicated but it’s much easier to do. Best wishes Rhona in Edinburgh

Weight control

Dear Anne

I use quite a lot of fine yarns and always had difficulty winding ‘half of a large cone’ equally. Now I pop the large cone onto my kitchen scales, halve the number of grams and then wind off until the large cone weighs the smaller number. This way I finish up with two equal cones, give or take an odd bit. It’s also really useful for the lovely patterns we have from Alison Dupernex, when she says ‘about 100g’. At this time in my life I feel really daft, as my scales were always in the kitchen for weighing food, not in my knitting room. To be honest, I bought them ages ago when I was going to slimming club each week and never got the hang of using them properly. Now they’re in my knitting room. I just pop on an empty cone then ‘zero’ the scales to have a really good idea how much of an oddment of yarn is on a cone. Yours sincerely, Margaret (who never did make it to slimmer of the week!)

Slip sliding

Dear Anne

I’ve recently completed a shadow pleated skirt on my Knitmaster 700 and I’d like to pass on a tip which might interest other readers. When I’m putting the pleating back onto the needles, the stitches tend to slide off as I work my way along the needlebed. If I put a loose elastic band around the completed side and move it, say, every five or six needles, the stitches don’t slide off and there’s obviously no damage to the needles. It really helps and I’m sure I can use the technique for other things, too. Best wishes, Chris in Staffordshire

Lighter life

Dear Anne

I’m in my 70s and suffer from arthritis in my hands and back. I now have a Silver Reed LK-150 and this machine has meant I’ve been able to start knitting again. I love the LK-150, as I’ve been unable to knit for several years since the other machines were too heavy. It’s so light and easy to use. I loved the Mint Set pattern for the baby’s cardigan with a hood which you printed in May on Page 37. Like everyone else we’re having to cut back and I used yarn from Aldi. Best wishes, Tricia

TWAM

Hi Anne

If you still have to hand the address of the charity that takes knitting machines, tools and so on, please could you let me have it? Kind regards, Alma

Tools With A Mission (TWAM) is a Christian charity that collects unwanted tools and equipment including knitting machines, sewing machines, yarn and accessories. Items are refurbished and sorted into kits for Sub-Saharan Africa, where TWAM works closely with local grassroots organisations. The head office is at 2 Bailey Close, Hadleigh Road Industrial Estate, Ipswich, Suffolk IP2 0UD. They’re open Monday to Friday from 9.00 am to 4.30 pm, but you must ring first. Their number is 01473-210220 or email post@twam.uk