Chunky

Hi Shellbelle

Welcome to machine knitting.

You can use balls of yarn but you will have to rewind them so the yarn feeds through the machine smoothly. For this you will need a winder. Check Metropolitan and BSK for new ones or eBay often has secondhand ones for sale.

It is much easier to use coned yarn as it is prepared especially for knitting machines. There are quite a few places that supply cones. Uppingham Metropolitan Undy BSK Yeoman Texere are a few that come to mind. They all have websites where you can order securely.

Hope this points you in the right direction.
Kind regards Sue.

Hello
Actually you can use any kind of balled or coned yarn with this machine. With balled yarn just try and pull the end from the centre of ball (not the outside) and pull enough off (about three long pulls) to knit one row – depending on the width of the row of course. I’ve been using my little Zippy 90 since the late 80s and it’s great for all kinds of yarn especially mohair.
Are you in Derby City or Derbyshire? I could offer some additional help.
Best wishes
Marilyn

Hi Shellbelle

Welcome to machine knitting.

You can use balls of yarn but you will have to rewind them so the yarn feeds through the machine smoothly. For this you will need a winder. Check Metropolitan and BSK for new ones or eBay often has secondhand ones for sale.

It is much easier to use coned yarn as it is prepared especially for knitting machines. There are quite a few places that supply cones. Uppingham Metropolitan Undy BSK Yeoman Texere are a few that come to mind. They all have websites where you can order securely.

Hope this points you in the right direction.
Kind regards Sue.

Hello
Actually you can use any kind of balled or coned yarn with this machine. With balled yarn just try and pull the end from the centre of ball (not the outside) and pull enough off (about three long pulls) to knit one row – depending on the width of the row of course. I’ve been using my little Zippy 90 since the late 80s and it’s great for all kinds of yarn especially mohair.
Are you in Derby City or Derbyshire? I could offer some additional help.
Best wishes
Marilyn

Hi

I hope this will help you with your problem. It sounds a bit complicated but does work and you won’t drop any stitches.

Take your latch tool and push it through a stitch from the first row knitted then move the needle forward and back to release the stitch. By pushing the latch tool down you will be able to ‘un-knit’ the stitch leaving a bar which you can knit up with the latch tool and then replace this new stitch on to the needle. By inserting the latch tool first you control how many rows of stitches are undone.

To form garter stitch you only want to undo one row but the same principle applies if you want to knit up several rows to form a rib. After knitting the required number of rows you just insert the latch tool where you want the stitches to change and run the rows down to the latch tool then pick up the bars to form new stitches.

If you leave the end stitches as they are they will form an edge which is easy to sew up. The edge stitches are more fiddly to reform so it is easier to leave them.

Hope this makes sense try casting on a few stitches to start with – it’s not so frustrating if you do drop a stitch!

Kind regards
Sue.

Hi

I hope this will help you with your problem. It sounds a bit complicated but does work and you won’t drop any stitches.

Take your latch tool and push it through a stitch from the first row knitted then move the needle forward and back to release the stitch. By pushing the latch tool down you will be able to ‘un-knit’ the stitch leaving a bar which you can knit up with the latch tool and then replace this new stitch on to the needle. By inserting the latch tool first you control how many rows of stitches are undone.

To form garter stitch you only want to undo one row but the same principle applies if you want to knit up several rows to form a rib. After knitting the required number of rows you just insert the latch tool where you want the stitches to change and run the rows down to the latch tool then pick up the bars to form new stitches.

If you leave the end stitches as they are they will form an edge which is easy to sew up. The edge stitches are more fiddly to reform so it is easier to leave them.

Hope this makes sense try casting on a few stitches to start with – it’s not so frustrating if you do drop a stitch!

Kind regards
Sue.

Hi

You need a Silver Reed 155 ribber.

Heathercraft list them on their website so it might be worth contacting them.

Regards

Sue.

Hi

You need a Silver Reed 155 ribber.

Heathercraft list them on their website so it might be worth contacting them.

Regards

Sue.

Hi Silverleat

Firstly a note about the Blue Ruler. You cannot use it with the Knitleader. It is useful for finding how many stitches and rows measure 10cm (4″) if you want to work out your garment mathematically.

For detailed instructions on knitting a tension swatch see page 46 in the KH260 manual. Cast on over 40 needles knit several rows in main yarn and 2 rows contrast yarn. Now knit 15 rows using main yarn and the stitch you will use for your garment. Using a loop of contrast yarn knit needle 11 each side of centre 0 by hand then knit a further 15 rows. This gives 30 rows in main yarn. Now knit 2 rows contrast and several rows main yarn. Remove from machine. Roll the piece of knitting and give it a tug lengthwise to close the stitches.

Let it rest for at least a couple of hours and preferably overnight.

Now it is ready to be measured in millimetres. By the figure you give it will be 120 mm for 20 stitches. You should have a set of chunky stitch rules with your machine. Find number 11 it has orange ends and numbering and at one end you will see 120-122 printed on it. Put it into the Knitleader with this side showing. For the rows measure between the contrast rows in mm; this will give the measurement of 30 rows.
Set the Knitleader according to this measurement. Your KL book will explain in detail.

Both trippers on the main carriage have to be in working position.

When you feed the sheet into the Knitleader the stitch scale will indicate how many stitches to cast on for 6″ using scale 11 this will be 24 sts.

Now if you knit your trial piece it should come out the correct size. By the reading of 23 on the blue ruler you will have to knit about 34 or 35 rows for 6″.

I do hope this helps you to use your Knitleader.

Regards
Sue.

Hi Silverleat

Firstly a note about the Blue Ruler. You cannot use it with the Knitleader. It is useful for finding how many stitches and rows measure 10cm (4″) if you want to work out your garment mathematically.

For detailed instructions on knitting a tension swatch see page 46 in the KH260 manual. Cast on over 40 needles knit several rows in main yarn and 2 rows contrast yarn. Now knit 15 rows using main yarn and the stitch you will use for your garment. Using a loop of contrast yarn knit needle 11 each side of centre 0 by hand then knit a further 15 rows. This gives 30 rows in main yarn. Now knit 2 rows contrast and several rows main yarn. Remove from machine. Roll the piece of knitting and give it a tug lengthwise to close the stitches.

Let it rest for at least a couple of hours and preferably overnight.

Now it is ready to be measured in millimetres. By the figure you give it will be 120 mm for 20 stitches. You should have a set of chunky stitch rules with your machine. Find number 11 it has orange ends and numbering and at one end you will see 120-122 printed on it. Put it into the Knitleader with this side showing. For the rows measure between the contrast rows in mm; this will give the measurement of 30 rows.
Set the Knitleader according to this measurement. Your KL book will explain in detail.

Both trippers on the main carriage have to be in working position.

When you feed the sheet into the Knitleader the stitch scale will indicate how many stitches to cast on for 6″ using scale 11 this will be 24 sts.

Now if you knit your trial piece it should come out the correct size. By the reading of 23 on the blue ruler you will have to knit about 34 or 35 rows for 6″.

I do hope this helps you to use your Knitleader.

Regards
Sue.

Hi Kathy
Pages 45-47 of the KH260 Instruction Manual give instructions for knitting your tension swatch. The measurements you need are taken over 20 sts and 30 rows.
Do you have the stitch scales numbered from 1-24 that come with the chunky machine? When you put the sheet into the Knit Leader and the scale which matches the measurement of 20 sts into the slot at the front you’ll see the number of stitches to cast on. You set the measurement for the 30 rows on the Knit Leader itself. I hope I’ve managed to point you in the right direction.
Kind Regards.
Sue

Dear Anne
Thank you for your e-mail directing me to your website. Another reader was having problems as well and a reply came saying look in the accessories of the Brother 260 and a set of stitch numbers should be included. Well I spring cleaned a chest full of knitting and sewing bits and pieces and yes – there they were hidden under several books and bags of felt and all the sizes that I need. Thank you very much.
Sincerely Magaret

Hi Kathy
Pages 45-47 of the KH260 Instruction Manual give instructions for knitting your tension swatch. The measurements you need are taken over 20 sts and 30 rows.
Do you have the stitch scales numbered from 1-24 that come with the chunky machine? When you put the sheet into the Knit Leader and the scale which matches the measurement of 20 sts into the slot at the front you’ll see the number of stitches to cast on. You set the measurement for the 30 rows on the Knit Leader itself. I hope I’ve managed to point you in the right direction.
Kind Regards.
Sue

Dear Anne
Thank you for your e-mail directing me to your website. Another reader was having problems as well and a reply came saying look in the accessories of the Brother 260 and a set of stitch numbers should be included. Well I spring cleaned a chest full of knitting and sewing bits and pieces and yes – there they were hidden under several books and bags of felt and all the sizes that I need. Thank you very much.
Sincerely Magaret

Hi Devonshire Dumpling
What a lovely name!
I have a Brother 260 and have found that the patterns Anne has published in the magazine recently are very suitable for this machine. Although many of them are written for mid gauge machines they can be knitted on the chunky as they use DK yarn.
The important thing is to knit a tension swatch in a suitable tension for the yarn you will use. Your stitches and rows may not exactly match the tension given in the pattern but once you know how many you have to 10 cm you can do a simple calculation to find out how many stitches you need to cast on for the size you want to knit and how many rows you need for the length you require. Divide your figures by 10 to get the number of stitches and rows to 1 cm then multiply by the width/length you require. Checking along the first row of instructions will often show a figure close to the one you have calculated so use that as your guide and mark the pattern accordingly. Do the same for the rows. Usually the shaping can be knitted as written in the pattern.
Anne has also published many patterns recently for chunky machines and these will knit on any chunky machine. You will still have to do a tension swatch and what I have written above will also apply.
There are lots of patterns available on the Internet so try a search to find what you are looking for.
I hope this helps
Regards
Sue.

Hi Sue
Thank you so much for the quick reply. I haven`t been machine knitting for long so its all new to me. I am slowly getting to grips with it and i will do as you say.
I look forward to knitting many master pieces.
Kathy

Hi
I’ve just read your post and I have one of these machines too – a 260 chunky with ribber. Look on eBay because they have a lot of original magazines books and instruction books for sale on the site. Also there are loads of patterns on CD which can easily be adapted for today and I hope this helps.
Best wishes Cathy

Hi Devonshire Dumpling
What a lovely name!
I have a Brother 260 and have found that the patterns Anne has published in the magazine recently are very suitable for this machine. Although many of them are written for mid gauge machines they can be knitted on the chunky as they use DK yarn.
The important thing is to knit a tension swatch in a suitable tension for the yarn you will use. Your stitches and rows may not exactly match the tension given in the pattern but once you know how many you have to 10 cm you can do a simple calculation to find out how many stitches you need to cast on for the size you want to knit and how many rows you need for the length you require. Divide your figures by 10 to get the number of stitches and rows to 1 cm then multiply by the width/length you require. Checking along the first row of instructions will often show a figure close to the one you have calculated so use that as your guide and mark the pattern accordingly. Do the same for the rows. Usually the shaping can be knitted as written in the pattern.
Anne has also published many patterns recently for chunky machines and these will knit on any chunky machine. You will still have to do a tension swatch and what I have written above will also apply.
There are lots of patterns available on the Internet so try a search to find what you are looking for.
I hope this helps
Regards
Sue.

Hi Sue
Thank you so much for the quick reply. I haven`t been machine knitting for long so its all new to me. I am slowly getting to grips with it and i will do as you say.
I look forward to knitting many master pieces.
Kathy

Hi
I’ve just read your post and I have one of these machines too – a 260 chunky with ribber. Look on eBay because they have a lot of original magazines books and instruction books for sale on the site. Also there are loads of patterns on CD which can easily be adapted for today and I hope this helps.
Best wishes Cathy

Hi
I found this website which may be of help:

http://knittsings.com/how-to-make-a-knitting-machine-needle-retainer-sponge-bar-part-1-remove-the-old-and-clean-for-new/

If you really can’t buy a new one – it looks very possible to make good the old one!

I usually buy from bsk – they are on eBay and you may be able to contact them to see if they can get a sponge bar to fit.

Hi Wrapaholic

I would like to buy a new one but if I can’t thanks for the information but where do you buy the felt?

Do you cut it to fit?

Thanks
Angie

Hi Have you tried Ebay I have just bought one for my old Jones Brother 910. Price was reasonable as well.

Also try BSK – they are usually very helpful.
Gail

Hi I have just followed the instructions on Knitsings for my Toyota 901 – sponge bars are no longer available.
I bought 1/2 inch foam on ebay and some woven iron-on interfacing but it is rather a loose weave and I think Vilene might be better. A rotary cutter sliced through the foam really cleanly. I am really pleased with the result.

Hi
I found this website which may be of help:

http://knittsings.com/how-to-make-a-knitting-machine-needle-retainer-sponge-bar-part-1-remove-the-old-and-clean-for-new/

If you really can’t buy a new one – it looks very possible to make good the old one!

I usually buy from bsk – they are on eBay and you may be able to contact them to see if they can get a sponge bar to fit.

Hi Wrapaholic

I would like to buy a new one but if I can’t thanks for the information but where do you buy the felt?

Do you cut it to fit?

Thanks
Angie

Hi Have you tried Ebay I have just bought one for my old Jones Brother 910. Price was reasonable as well.

Also try BSK – they are usually very helpful.
Gail

Hi I have just followed the instructions on Knitsings for my Toyota 901 – sponge bars are no longer available.
I bought 1/2 inch foam on ebay and some woven iron-on interfacing but it is rather a loose weave and I think Vilene might be better. A rotary cutter sliced through the foam really cleanly. I am really pleased with the result.

Hi make a swatch 20 stitches and 30 rows. Knit 15 rows and mark the 11th needle each side knit 15 more rows.
See page 45 in the instruction book. You should have stitch scales provided with the chunky machine which fit the Knitleader.

Thank you for that information its a great help now coming back into machine knitting after 20+ years and have again a chunky and standard machine. I’ve forgotten everything!

I am trying to find what the little green ruler is for – I can remember using it to measure between markers but can not remember how to read it and was it for use with knitleader or not the little grey cells are not working.

Thank you once again for your response

Hi Kath
The green ruler is for measuring swatches done on the standard gauge machine – there is a blue one for the chunky.
You line up the end with ‘s’ against the left marked stitch and read off the stitches to 10cm at the other marked stitch.
Similarly for rows with the other side.
For the Knitleader you have to measure 40 sts with a ruler and find the appropriate stitch scale then measure 60 rows and turn the dial on the Knitleader to the corresponding setting.
Hope this helps
Sue

Hi make a swatch 20 stitches and 30 rows. Knit 15 rows and mark the 11th needle each side knit 15 more rows.
See page 45 in the instruction book. You should have stitch scales provided with the chunky machine which fit the Knitleader.

Thank you for that information its a great help now coming back into machine knitting after 20+ years and have again a chunky and standard machine. I’ve forgotten everything!

I am trying to find what the little green ruler is for – I can remember using it to measure between markers but can not remember how to read it and was it for use with knitleader or not the little grey cells are not working.

Thank you once again for your response

Hi Kath
The green ruler is for measuring swatches done on the standard gauge machine – there is a blue one for the chunky.
You line up the end with ‘s’ against the left marked stitch and read off the stitches to 10cm at the other marked stitch.
Similarly for rows with the other side.
For the Knitleader you have to measure 40 sts with a ruler and find the appropriate stitch scale then measure 60 rows and turn the dial on the Knitleader to the corresponding setting.
Hope this helps
Sue

Hi I had this problem too. I was unable to find a supplier for the sponge bar but I did use foam insulation tape to replace the sponge. This was about 2 years ago and it’s still going strong!

Best wishes
Carole

Thanks Carole I’ll remember that tip. I eventually managed to find one from UndyYarns.co.uk although it was not on their website they had them in stock.

regards
Lyn

Hi I had this problem too. I was unable to find a supplier for the sponge bar but I did use foam insulation tape to replace the sponge. This was about 2 years ago and it’s still going strong!

Best wishes
Carole

Thanks Carole I’ll remember that tip. I eventually managed to find one from UndyYarns.co.uk although it was not on their website they had them in stock.

regards
Lyn