The following is a neckband I have used many times. It gives a neat appearance and is fairly easy.
Instead of casting off stitches at the back and front neck and at the top of the sleeves on a raglan garment take these pieces off the machine by knitting several rows of waste yarn.
Join your garment pieces together leaving one shoulder seam open.
Hold the neckline up to the machine to ascertain how many needles you need for the neckband. The number of needles will be the number of stitches held on waste yarn plus extra for the sides of the front neck.
Bring forward the appropriate number of needles and arrange them according to the rib you wish to knit.
Cast on with a slightly looser stitch size than you would normally use hang your comb and weights.
Knit double the number of rows you require for the depth of the neckband. You can gradually decrease the stitch size for half the rows the gradually increase it again for the second half.
Transfer all the ribber bed needles to the main bed and knit one row at main tension the stitch size you used for the garment pieces.
Drop the ribber and hook up the stitches held on waste yarn and pick up the whole stitches (not just the edge loop) evenly down the front of the neck shaping.
Knit one row at main tension then one row at tension 10.
Cast off by latching through the loops either while the knitting is still on the needles or knit several rows of waste yarn at main tension and remove from the machine then latch through the loops of the last row of main yarn.
Sew up the remaining shoulder seam fold the neckband in half to the inside and catch the cast on row to the loops of the cast off row with fairly loose stitches so that there is some ‘give’.
This gives a double thickness neckband the row knitted across all stitches before attaching the garment gives a neat finish.
I suggest you try this out on your tension swatch before trying it on your garment just to see how it works.
Kind regards
Sue.
The following is a neckband I have used many times. It gives a neat appearance and is fairly easy.
Instead of casting off stitches at the back and front neck and at the top of the sleeves on a raglan garment take these pieces off the machine by knitting several rows of waste yarn.
Join your garment pieces together leaving one shoulder seam open.
Hold the neckline up to the machine to ascertain how many needles you need for the neckband. The number of needles will be the number of stitches held on waste yarn plus extra for the sides of the front neck.
Bring forward the appropriate number of needles and arrange them according to the rib you wish to knit.
Cast on with a slightly looser stitch size than you would normally use hang your comb and weights.
Knit double the number of rows you require for the depth of the neckband. You can gradually decrease the stitch size for half the rows the gradually increase it again for the second half.
Transfer all the ribber bed needles to the main bed and knit one row at main tension the stitch size you used for the garment pieces.
Drop the ribber and hook up the stitches held on waste yarn and pick up the whole stitches (not just the edge loop) evenly down the front of the neck shaping.
Knit one row at main tension then one row at tension 10.
Cast off by latching through the loops either while the knitting is still on the needles or knit several rows of waste yarn at main tension and remove from the machine then latch through the loops of the last row of main yarn.
Sew up the remaining shoulder seam fold the neckband in half to the inside and catch the cast on row to the loops of the cast off row with fairly loose stitches so that there is some ‘give’.
This gives a double thickness neckband the row knitted across all stitches before attaching the garment gives a neat finish.
I suggest you try this out on your tension swatch before trying it on your garment just to see how it works.
Kind regards
Sue.