Machine Knitting Magazine from Dec 1979

I have just returned to machine knitting after a gap of 20 years and my memory is not what it was! I have two punched cards, which I once used to make a baby shawl in a tuck lace effect stitch. I cannot recall the needle settings but I do know the pattern came from Machine Knitting something, in the December 1979 issue.

Does anyone have a copy? It was a square shawl, the centre being knit from one card and the edges from another.

Angela Reed

Dear Angela

The pattern diagram gives the total depth of the armhole as D = 19 [21.25 23.5] cm. In the pattern the armhole shaping is worked over 30 [34 34] rows which works out at about 7 cm for the first size and about 8 cm for the second and third sizes.

The straight section is therefore 12 [13.25 15.5] cm or thereabouts. I hope this helps you draw the pattern on your Knit Radar. Having just checked through the other patterns in MKM the total armhole depth is always measurement D.

Kind regards
Sue

Sue P
2010-07-30 11:59:52
Hi Sue

Following on from your answer may I ask another question? I too am confused about this part of the shaping when transferring to the Knit Leader. I have never used mine.

If I want to copy a pattern from MKM which for example is sized for DK and I want to knit in 4-ply – how do I transfer the measurement so I get the correct size from 4-ply wool onto the charting device? Can you also explain how I draw the armhole curve shoulder shaping and neckline to ensure that my decreases are correct? Thank you so much.

Mary

scary007
2010-07-30 11:58:37
Dear Angela

The pattern diagram gives the total depth of the armhole as D = 19 [21.25 23.5] cm. In the pattern the armhole shaping is worked over 30 [34 34] rows which works out at about 7 cm for the first size and about 8 cm for the second and third sizes.

The straight section is therefore 12 [13.25 15.5] cm or thereabouts. I hope this helps you draw the pattern on your Knit Radar. Having just checked through the other patterns in MKM the total armhole depth is always measurement D.

Kind regards
Sue

Sue P
2010-07-30 11:59:52
Hi Sue

Following on from your answer may I ask another question? I too am confused about this part of the shaping when transferring to the Knit Leader. I have never used mine.

If I want to copy a pattern from MKM which for example is sized for DK and I want to knit in 4-ply – how do I transfer the measurement so I get the correct size from 4-ply wool onto the charting device? Can you also explain how I draw the armhole curve shoulder shaping and neckline to ensure that my decreases are correct? Thank you so much.

Mary

scary007
2010-07-30 11:58:37

Guild of Machine Knitters’ Weekend of Workshops and Lecture

The Slip Stitch ‘hands-on’ workshop investigates slip stitch, especially petal slip stitch and other related highly textured fabrics. Participants must bring their own knitting machine, table and accessories.

For the Mixed Media ‘hands-on’ workshop, Denise Musk says that this will be challenging for anyone not familiar with using their sewing machine in combination with machine knitted fabric. However, it does stimulate individuals to try out new techniques. It’s essential that a sewing machine is in full working order and that the operator knows how to thread and use it, as there will not be time for Denise to set up machines which the user does not understand. Participants must bring their sewing machine, threads, accessories and so on. Village hall tables will be available.

During the Mixed Media lecture, Denise will show garments made over the last few years using many combinations of machine knitting, crochet, machine embroidery, fabric painting, embellishment and other relevant textile crafts. Denise also invites knitters to raise any topical related subject for general discussion. This is not a ‘hands-on’ workshop, but is sure to be of great interest. For more information about Mixed Media, see page 7 of the August 2006 Guild of Machine Knitters’ Newsletter and pages 13, 20 to 23 of the August 2009 Newsletter.

Shoulder measurements

I have the Sylvia Wynn book Knit to Finish. When measuring, it states to measure across the shoulders. It also says to give a mean measurement. Can anybody tell me where on the shoulders to measure. Thank you.

To measure the shoulder width feel for the knobbly bone at the top of the arm (the end of the clavicle) and take the measurement across the back. It’s best to get someone to measure you. It’s not usual to add on any extra for ‘ease’ – this is what is meant by taking a mean measurement. If you add anything to this measurement the shoulders of the garment will drop down over the top of the arms hence the fashion of ‘drop shoulder’ sweaters! Hope this helps.
Regards Sue.
Anne
2010-06-11 09:43:51

French Electronics

I live in France and would love to make contact with other double bed knitting machine owners.

Kind regards, Penelope Skea

Hi Penelope

My name is Maggi Bloice and I live in Brittany, as a knitting machine collector I have several of the Singer/Superbas and they are incredible machines, I find that France (or Brittany) in my case is a bit of a desert for machine knitters, I did advertise a few years ago for interested parties to contact me and I had a few responses but most were too far away.

kind regards,

Maggi

maggi
2010-11-21 10:00:50
Hi Penelope, check out the Singer group at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/superbawhite/ as there are several members who live in France. Also Patrick Madden’s excellent website which is choc full of specific info about our wonderful machines. Search for Superba Knitting.
Shona
shona mcdougall
2013-01-27 18:30:35

Double Jacquard

In response to the query about this stitch/yarn thickness and 1×1 patterning, 4 ply is too thick for Double Jacquard. Effectively it has become an 8 ply fabric. 1×1 patterning always causes problems with LILI buttons. You get a sort of ragged zigzag. The only solution I have found is to revert to striper backing, or try a double length 1×1 pattern.

4-ply thickness works very well if you use ladder jacquard, with only one stitch in 3 or 4, or even 5 on the ribber. Make the ribber tension as tight as is practical for it to knit off the stitches to avoid ‘tramlines’ on the right side. Experiment a little on a tension swatch to find the ideal.
Jo Newton
2010-06-08 11:37:24
I think it was Mary Weaver in her book “Easy Fairisle for the Brother Ribber” who introduced us to the idea of ladder jacquard. Subsequent experiments have shown that widening the space between ribber needles in work can produce a lighter fabric, hence Jo’s comment that every 5th ribber needle can be used. Another tip is to set the ribber carriage to slip in one direction which traps the floats every 2nd row. Tramlines on the face of the knitted fabric reduce or even disappear.
Gwynshelton
2013-01-27 18:30:35

Thread Lace

All of the stitches knit across the work, it’s just the edge five or six stitches that miss. I have tried loosening and tightening the tension to no avail. The worst side for missing was the left, the side nearest the fine thread. I use a Knitmaster 580 and have set the pattern two or three stitches in.

Hi Kn1tmaster 580

Just a thought – do you need to use extra weight on the edge stitches?

Regards Sue

Sue P
2010-06-16 18:45:11
Hi Kn1tmaster 580

Just a thought – do you need to use extra weight on the edge stitches?

Regards Sue

Sue P
2010-06-16 18:45:11

Knitting Machine Cabinet Wanted

Does any one know of a knitting machine cabinet and storage cabinet/bench that is in good condition and is for sale?
I am looking to purchase one in a light coloured wood and am able to collect within a reasonable distance from Lincoln

Hi Jayangel

There is a cabinet on eBay at the moment but it’s in Bexhill-on-Sea.

Item No. 150449901607; ends 6th June at 18:52.

The starting price is £30.

Regards

Sue.

Sue P
2010-06-06 11:50:05

Double Bed Jacquard Help!

Firstly, many manuals say that I should be using approx tension 4 for 4ply. When I tried that it was almost impossible to pass the carriage from one side to the other. I cannot knit lower than tension 7 (which is still pretty tight) – am I doing something wrong?

Secondly, and most importantly, I am not happy with the way that the stitches line up. One of my patterns have a feature of alternate colour stitches in a row (i’ve attached an image of part of the design, as well as the final result). Once knitted the stitches of the same colour clump together, almost creating a line.

The same applies to the back… I have knitted this on birds-eye setting (lili) and again, they are almost lines.

If anyone can explain why this is happening I would be extremely grateful. I’ve read every manual and searched the web, without any luck!

Please help!

Zara

I think you have been given the wrong information. They must have meant single jacquard (Fair Isle) when they said 4-ply yarn was suitable. For Double Jacquard 2-ply thickness is best and 3-ply is reasonable – depending on the yarn.
A Bird’s eye pattern won’t work with the LILI setting. You might try a double length 1×1 but sorry I can’t remember what card number that is for Brother. Nancy
ozmartian
2010-06-04 09:52:33
I think you have been given the wrong information. They must have meant single jacquard (Fair Isle) when they said 4-ply yarn was suitable. For Double Jacquard 2-ply thickness is best and 3-ply is reasonable – depending on the yarn.
A Bird’s eye pattern won’t work with the LILI setting. You might try a double length 1×1 but sorry I can’t remember what card number that is for Brother. Nancy
ozmartian
2010-06-04 09:52:33