Machines

Hi Mo
The shawl in the photo looks as if it is knitted in Tuck Stitch which would be quite easy to knit.
If you go to http://needlesofsteel.org.uk/ you will find loads of free KM patterns. One of the shawls is in 4ply Tuck Stitch. It is knitted in one piece using two punchcards which you can download.
Hope this helps.
Regards
Sue.

Hi Mo
It’s me again!
There’s a baby’s shawl in the new September issue of MKM – might be just what you are looking for.
Sue.

Hi Mo
The shawl in the photo looks as if it is knitted in Tuck Stitch which would be quite easy to knit.
If you go to http://needlesofsteel.org.uk/ you will find loads of free KM patterns. One of the shawls is in 4ply Tuck Stitch. It is knitted in one piece using two punchcards which you can download.
Hope this helps.
Regards
Sue.

Hi Mo
It’s me again!
There’s a baby’s shawl in the new September issue of MKM – might be just what you are looking for.
Sue.

Hi
When working end needle selection’ brings the needles at the edges to ‘D’ position so that they knit the contrast colour when knitting Fair Isle and knit a plain stitch when knitting tuck or slip. This makes it easier to increase or decrease stitches when knitting textured patterns as you have a plain stitch at the edge of the knitting. Just push back the 2 edge needles to ‘B’ position work the increase or decrease and bring the edge needles back to ‘D’ position so they knit on the next row.
However when you knit an open stitch pattern with some needles in ‘A’ position you switch off the ‘end needle selection’ otherwise the needles next to the ones in ‘A’ position will be selected to knit and the pattern will not knit correctly.
The above would apply if you are knitting a tuck rib pattern with a punchcard and needles knitting or tucking on the ribber. Whether you have ‘end needle selection’ on or off depends on the needle set up on the main bed.
I do hope this helps you sort it out.
Regards Sue.

Thank you Sue. I think I am starting to understand! Sometimes it takes a bit of time. So often I have ended up with a very messy edge when attempting to increase or decrease when working in tuck stitch. I get loops that just will not knit off properly several stitches in from the ends after an increase/decrease.
I have given up trying to do Fair Isle passed the armholes as it always ends in disaster!
I have always had all needles on the main bed in work so I take it I should then always have ‘end needle selection’ so that means I am making some other mistake! Back to the drawing board then!

Hi Remone
Yes I think you usually keep ‘end needle selection’ on as it saves you having to manually move needles forward at the edges.
When knitting tuck stitch make sure you move the claw weights up frequently especially when increasing and decreasing and always use them once you have started the armhole decreasing. This should help the stitches to knit off properly.
Regards
Sue.

Hi
When working end needle selection’ brings the needles at the edges to ‘D’ position so that they knit the contrast colour when knitting Fair Isle and knit a plain stitch when knitting tuck or slip. This makes it easier to increase or decrease stitches when knitting textured patterns as you have a plain stitch at the edge of the knitting. Just push back the 2 edge needles to ‘B’ position work the increase or decrease and bring the edge needles back to ‘D’ position so they knit on the next row.
However when you knit an open stitch pattern with some needles in ‘A’ position you switch off the ‘end needle selection’ otherwise the needles next to the ones in ‘A’ position will be selected to knit and the pattern will not knit correctly.
The above would apply if you are knitting a tuck rib pattern with a punchcard and needles knitting or tucking on the ribber. Whether you have ‘end needle selection’ on or off depends on the needle set up on the main bed.
I do hope this helps you sort it out.
Regards Sue.

Thank you Sue. I think I am starting to understand! Sometimes it takes a bit of time. So often I have ended up with a very messy edge when attempting to increase or decrease when working in tuck stitch. I get loops that just will not knit off properly several stitches in from the ends after an increase/decrease.
I have given up trying to do Fair Isle passed the armholes as it always ends in disaster!
I have always had all needles on the main bed in work so I take it I should then always have ‘end needle selection’ so that means I am making some other mistake! Back to the drawing board then!

Hi Remone
Yes I think you usually keep ‘end needle selection’ on as it saves you having to manually move needles forward at the edges.
When knitting tuck stitch make sure you move the claw weights up frequently especially when increasing and decreasing and always use them once you have started the armhole decreasing. This should help the stitches to knit off properly.
Regards
Sue.

Hi
No they don’t but you can use Knitmaster needles on a Toyota 901 for stocking stitch. The only problem is that it plays up on tuck or slip stitch because the obsolete Toyota needles have a particular flat shape on the back end which I think has some bearing on the action of tuck and so on. I’m not sure and it might just be my old machine.

Hi
No they don’t but you can use Knitmaster needles on a Toyota 901 for stocking stitch. The only problem is that it plays up on tuck or slip stitch because the obsolete Toyota needles have a particular flat shape on the back end which I think has some bearing on the action of tuck and so on. I’m not sure and it might just be my old machine.

Hi
I’ve had the same sort of problem. My husband managed to bend it forward to the right position but now it only rotates right to left properly but left to right only goes about quarter turn. I’ve not used it for 13 years and have just got it out of the loft. I’ve put it down to wear and tear and I’m trying to find a cheap one to replace it as the dial is cracked and it’s missing the clutch button. It does sound in a sorry state doesn’t it. I know all this doesn’t help you but at least you know that someone else is in the same position.
Best wishes
jotyrrell@btinternet.com

Hi
I’ve had the same sort of problem. My husband managed to bend it forward to the right position but now it only rotates right to left properly but left to right only goes about quarter turn. I’ve not used it for 13 years and have just got it out of the loft. I’ve put it down to wear and tear and I’m trying to find a cheap one to replace it as the dial is cracked and it’s missing the clutch button. It does sound in a sorry state doesn’t it. I know all this doesn’t help you but at least you know that someone else is in the same position.
Best wishes
jotyrrell@btinternet.com

Hi Linda
Rennie sell their coned yarn ‘oiled’ but I don’t know whether BSK have it supplied ready washed.
If it is oiled it will feel greasy look a bit stringy and have a distinct smell. In that case you would have to knit the tension swatch at a looser setting than normal and wash it a couple of times in warm water to which you’ve added some washing up liquid. Once you’ve rinsed it thoroughly sqeeze out the excess moisture and pat it to shape on a towel and allow to dry naturally. The looser tension allows the fibres to fluff up once the oil is removed.
As a guide – for Shetland spun in oil equivalent to a 4 ply the tension has to be about 9.
I hope this helps a bit.
Regards
Sue.

Hi Linda
Rennie sell their coned yarn ‘oiled’ but I don’t know whether BSK have it supplied ready washed.
If it is oiled it will feel greasy look a bit stringy and have a distinct smell. In that case you would have to knit the tension swatch at a looser setting than normal and wash it a couple of times in warm water to which you’ve added some washing up liquid. Once you’ve rinsed it thoroughly sqeeze out the excess moisture and pat it to shape on a towel and allow to dry naturally. The looser tension allows the fibres to fluff up once the oil is removed.
As a guide – for Shetland spun in oil equivalent to a 4 ply the tension has to be about 9.
I hope this helps a bit.
Regards
Sue.

If you go into Google enter ‘ribber alignment brother 850’
In the results second one down when I looked there is an ebay guide by Supercub the title is’ Knitting
machines part 2 Adjusting a Brother ribber’ which worked great for me give it a try I have it in my favorites so I don’t lose it!

If you go into Google enter ‘ribber alignment brother 850’
In the results second one down when I looked there is an ebay guide by Supercub the title is’ Knitting
machines part 2 Adjusting a Brother ribber’ which worked great for me give it a try I have it in my favorites so I don’t lose it!

Hi there

With respect to sponge bars I collect knitting machines and sponge bars are always required and as would be a very expensive thing to buy (some of my machines cost less than the sponge bar required to ensure they knit) and this is how I do it I buy a roll of draught excluder – (it is smooth on top and sticky underneath and normally brown or white in colour) from say Homebase then I remove the old sponge bar and scrape it clean. I then lay a length of the draught excluder along the bar (sometimes it may need a double layer depending how thick the foam is) and I secure it well on both sides using Scotch Tape. The next part is important push it back into the machine carefully. There is of course a risk with this method ie that the sponge could come off and stick in the machine but I have never had any problems and I have done it many times. An important tip is when removing the sponge bar check to see how it goes into the machine. When the job is done the needles should be flat against the bed. Signs of requiring a new sponge bar is needles that are raised from the bed.

Hi
Your machine will take a KR501 or KR506 ribber.
Sponge bars are a bit of a problem – Toyota bars are difficult to find. There is an American website – www.theknittingcloset.com – that has them.
Some people also recommend using a Knitmaster or Silver Reed sponge bar as a replacement because they are fairly narrow.
Hope this helps.
Sue.

Hi
I have found a better alternative to sponge on the sponge bars. I have replaced the sponge with a row of 12 conical springs – the type found in AAA battery packs purchased from Maplins electronics a battery pack costs 89p and has four springs. The springs are attached to the sponge bar then covered with a length of metal tape the type found in retractable tape measures the smaller type which are usually 1 metre long and the same width as the sponge bar. Purchased from our local hardware store they are £1.29 for a twin pack.
When the tape is cut from the holder remember to put Sellotape over each end they are very sharp.
You just have to remember when inserting the sponge bar it has to be inserted upside down so that the springs are facing away from the needles. I use this method in both the main bed and the ribber attachment.
The bar works perfectly and I have been using it for over a year now and the springs are still in perfect condition. Until I created this method the sponge bar was the absolute bain of my life very hard to find and messy to replace on a DIY basis. I hope this helps.

Hi there

With respect to sponge bars I collect knitting machines and sponge bars are always required and as would be a very expensive thing to buy (some of my machines cost less than the sponge bar required to ensure they knit) and this is how I do it I buy a roll of draught excluder – (it is smooth on top and sticky underneath and normally brown or white in colour) from say Homebase then I remove the old sponge bar and scrape it clean. I then lay a length of the draught excluder along the bar (sometimes it may need a double layer depending how thick the foam is) and I secure it well on both sides using Scotch Tape. The next part is important push it back into the machine carefully. There is of course a risk with this method ie that the sponge could come off and stick in the machine but I have never had any problems and I have done it many times. An important tip is when removing the sponge bar check to see how it goes into the machine. When the job is done the needles should be flat against the bed. Signs of requiring a new sponge bar is needles that are raised from the bed.

Hi
Your machine will take a KR501 or KR506 ribber.
Sponge bars are a bit of a problem – Toyota bars are difficult to find. There is an American website – www.theknittingcloset.com – that has them.
Some people also recommend using a Knitmaster or Silver Reed sponge bar as a replacement because they are fairly narrow.
Hope this helps.
Sue.

Hi
I have found a better alternative to sponge on the sponge bars. I have replaced the sponge with a row of 12 conical springs – the type found in AAA battery packs purchased from Maplins electronics a battery pack costs 89p and has four springs. The springs are attached to the sponge bar then covered with a length of metal tape the type found in retractable tape measures the smaller type which are usually 1 metre long and the same width as the sponge bar. Purchased from our local hardware store they are £1.29 for a twin pack.
When the tape is cut from the holder remember to put Sellotape over each end they are very sharp.
You just have to remember when inserting the sponge bar it has to be inserted upside down so that the springs are facing away from the needles. I use this method in both the main bed and the ribber attachment.
The bar works perfectly and I have been using it for over a year now and the springs are still in perfect condition. Until I created this method the sponge bar was the absolute bain of my life very hard to find and messy to replace on a DIY basis. I hope this helps.