Standard Gauge

End Needle Selection

Many thanks.

Hi
When working end needle selection’ brings the needles at the edges to ‘D’ position so that they knit the contrast colour when knitting Fair Isle and knit a plain stitch when knitting tuck or slip. This makes it easier to increase or decrease stitches when knitting textured patterns as you have a plain stitch at the edge of the knitting. Just push back the 2 edge needles to ‘B’ position work the increase or decrease and bring the edge needles back to ‘D’ position so they knit on the next row.
However when you knit an open stitch pattern with some needles in ‘A’ position you switch off the ‘end needle selection’ otherwise the needles next to the ones in ‘A’ position will be selected to knit and the pattern will not knit correctly.
The above would apply if you are knitting a tuck rib pattern with a punchcard and needles knitting or tucking on the ribber. Whether you have ‘end needle selection’ on or off depends on the needle set up on the main bed.
I do hope this helps you sort it out.
Regards Sue.
Sue P
2011-05-17 16:49:12
Thank you Sue. I think I am starting to understand! Sometimes it takes a bit of time. So often I have ended up with a very messy edge when attempting to increase or decrease when working in tuck stitch. I get loops that just will not knit off properly several stitches in from the ends after an increase/decrease.
I have given up trying to do Fair Isle passed the armholes as it always ends in disaster!
I have always had all needles on the main bed in work so I take it I should then always have ‘end needle selection’ so that means I am making some other mistake! Back to the drawing board then!
remone
2011-06-01 15:58:09
Hi Remone
Yes I think you usually keep ‘end needle selection’ on as it saves you having to manually move needles forward at the edges.
When knitting tuck stitch make sure you move the claw weights up frequently especially when increasing and decreasing and always use them once you have started the armhole decreasing. This should help the stitches to knit off properly.
Regards
Sue.
Sue P
2011-06-01 16:11:30
Hi
When working end needle selection’ brings the needles at the edges to ‘D’ position so that they knit the contrast colour when knitting Fair Isle and knit a plain stitch when knitting tuck or slip. This makes it easier to increase or decrease stitches when knitting textured patterns as you have a plain stitch at the edge of the knitting. Just push back the 2 edge needles to ‘B’ position work the increase or decrease and bring the edge needles back to ‘D’ position so they knit on the next row.
However when you knit an open stitch pattern with some needles in ‘A’ position you switch off the ‘end needle selection’ otherwise the needles next to the ones in ‘A’ position will be selected to knit and the pattern will not knit correctly.
The above would apply if you are knitting a tuck rib pattern with a punchcard and needles knitting or tucking on the ribber. Whether you have ‘end needle selection’ on or off depends on the needle set up on the main bed.
I do hope this helps you sort it out.
Regards Sue.
Sue P
2011-05-17 16:49:12
Thank you Sue. I think I am starting to understand! Sometimes it takes a bit of time. So often I have ended up with a very messy edge when attempting to increase or decrease when working in tuck stitch. I get loops that just will not knit off properly several stitches in from the ends after an increase/decrease.
I have given up trying to do Fair Isle passed the armholes as it always ends in disaster!
I have always had all needles on the main bed in work so I take it I should then always have ‘end needle selection’ so that means I am making some other mistake! Back to the drawing board then!
remone
2011-06-01 15:58:09
Hi Remone
Yes I think you usually keep ‘end needle selection’ on as it saves you having to manually move needles forward at the edges.
When knitting tuck stitch make sure you move the claw weights up frequently especially when increasing and decreasing and always use them once you have started the armhole decreasing. This should help the stitches to knit off properly.
Regards
Sue.
Sue P
2011-06-01 16:11:30

Brother Knit Leader problems

I am a newby to machine knitting and have really got hooked. My Brother Knit Leader seems such an obvious help to getting garments the right size. I’ve set it up but when I test it by scrolling forwards, it only scrolls maybe a quarter of a row, but I can do it backwards. I’ve dismantled it and found no obvious wear or breakages. Do I abandon it (it wasn’t that expensive), or can I repair it? Any suggestions please.

Hi
I’ve had the same sort of problem. My husband managed to bend it forward to the right position but now it only rotates right to left properly but left to right only goes about quarter turn. I’ve not used it for 13 years and have just got it out of the loft. I’ve put it down to wear and tear and I’m trying to find a cheap one to replace it as the dial is cracked and it’s missing the clutch button. It does sound in a sorry state doesn’t it. I know all this doesn’t help you but at least you know that someone else is in the same position.
Best wishes
jotyrrell@btinternet.com
Anne
2011-08-30 11:43:34
Hi
I’ve had the same sort of problem. My husband managed to bend it forward to the right position but now it only rotates right to left properly but left to right only goes about quarter turn. I’ve not used it for 13 years and have just got it out of the loft. I’ve put it down to wear and tear and I’m trying to find a cheap one to replace it as the dial is cracked and it’s missing the clutch button. It does sound in a sorry state doesn’t it. I know all this doesn’t help you but at least you know that someone else is in the same position.
Best wishes
jotyrrell@btinternet.com
Anne
2011-08-30 11:43:34

Rennie Supersoft wool

Hi Linda
Rennie sell their coned yarn ‘oiled’ but I don’t know whether BSK have it supplied ready washed.
If it is oiled it will feel greasy look a bit stringy and have a distinct smell. In that case you would have to knit the tension swatch at a looser setting than normal and wash it a couple of times in warm water to which you’ve added some washing up liquid. Once you’ve rinsed it thoroughly sqeeze out the excess moisture and pat it to shape on a towel and allow to dry naturally. The looser tension allows the fibres to fluff up once the oil is removed.
As a guide – for Shetland spun in oil equivalent to a 4 ply the tension has to be about 9.
I hope this helps a bit.
Regards
Sue.
Sue P
2011-04-01 17:05:00
Hi Linda
Rennie sell their coned yarn ‘oiled’ but I don’t know whether BSK have it supplied ready washed.
If it is oiled it will feel greasy look a bit stringy and have a distinct smell. In that case you would have to knit the tension swatch at a looser setting than normal and wash it a couple of times in warm water to which you’ve added some washing up liquid. Once you’ve rinsed it thoroughly sqeeze out the excess moisture and pat it to shape on a towel and allow to dry naturally. The looser tension allows the fibres to fluff up once the oil is removed.
As a guide – for Shetland spun in oil equivalent to a 4 ply the tension has to be about 9.
I hope this helps a bit.
Regards
Sue.
Sue P
2011-04-01 17:05:00

Ribber alignment

Hi
I have a Brother 850 and ribber, which desperately needs a good service after 20 years out of use. I have been unable to find anywhere locally (Halifax, West Yorkshire) and wonder if anyone can help?
I have replaced the sponge bar and the main bed works just fine. However, when the ribber is in place it just doesn’t pick up the yarn. The needles look to be in the correct position and I feel it may be the carriage. I look forward to any information or advice anyone may be able to provide.
Thank you in anticipation
Kind regards
Sue Stead

If you go into Google enter ‘ribber alignment brother 850’
In the results second one down when I looked there is an ebay guide by Supercub the title is’ Knitting
machines part 2 Adjusting a Brother ribber’ which worked great for me give it a try I have it in my favorites so I don’t lose it!
daisymay
2011-04-07 10:13:42
If you go into Google enter ‘ribber alignment brother 850’
In the results second one down when I looked there is an ebay guide by Supercub the title is’ Knitting
machines part 2 Adjusting a Brother ribber’ which worked great for me give it a try I have it in my favorites so I don’t lose it!
daisymay
2011-04-07 10:13:42

Toyota KS858

Hi there!
I’m a newbie to this and have a Toyota KS858 which hasn’t seen the light of day for many years.
Could anyone advise as to:-
1. Where I might be able to obtain a sponge bar to fit.
2. What ribber would be suitable.

Apologies if this post appears twice or if I’ve made any basic blunders, any and all help would be much appreciated.
Thanks and kind regards

Hi there

With respect to sponge bars I collect knitting machines and sponge bars are always required and as would be a very expensive thing to buy (some of my machines cost less than the sponge bar required to ensure they knit) and this is how I do it I buy a roll of draught excluder – (it is smooth on top and sticky underneath and normally brown or white in colour) from say Homebase then I remove the old sponge bar and scrape it clean. I then lay a length of the draught excluder along the bar (sometimes it may need a double layer depending how thick the foam is) and I secure it well on both sides using Scotch Tape. The next part is important push it back into the machine carefully. There is of course a risk with this method ie that the sponge could come off and stick in the machine but I have never had any problems and I have done it many times. An important tip is when removing the sponge bar check to see how it goes into the machine. When the job is done the needles should be flat against the bed. Signs of requiring a new sponge bar is needles that are raised from the bed.

maggi
2011-03-15 11:09:45
Hi
Your machine will take a KR501 or KR506 ribber.
Sponge bars are a bit of a problem – Toyota bars are difficult to find. There is an American website – www.theknittingcloset.com – that has them.
Some people also recommend using a Knitmaster or Silver Reed sponge bar as a replacement because they are fairly narrow.
Hope this helps.
Sue.
Sue P
2011-02-20 14:27:21
Hi
I have found a better alternative to sponge on the sponge bars. I have replaced the sponge with a row of 12 conical springs – the type found in AAA battery packs purchased from Maplins electronics a battery pack costs 89p and has four springs. The springs are attached to the sponge bar then covered with a length of metal tape the type found in retractable tape measures the smaller type which are usually 1 metre long and the same width as the sponge bar. Purchased from our local hardware store they are £1.29 for a twin pack.
When the tape is cut from the holder remember to put Sellotape over each end they are very sharp.
You just have to remember when inserting the sponge bar it has to be inserted upside down so that the springs are facing away from the needles. I use this method in both the main bed and the ribber attachment.
The bar works perfectly and I have been using it for over a year now and the springs are still in perfect condition. Until I created this method the sponge bar was the absolute bain of my life very hard to find and messy to replace on a DIY basis. I hope this helps.
Stivi
2011-09-30 20:23:27
Hi there

With respect to sponge bars I collect knitting machines and sponge bars are always required and as would be a very expensive thing to buy (some of my machines cost less than the sponge bar required to ensure they knit) and this is how I do it I buy a roll of draught excluder – (it is smooth on top and sticky underneath and normally brown or white in colour) from say Homebase then I remove the old sponge bar and scrape it clean. I then lay a length of the draught excluder along the bar (sometimes it may need a double layer depending how thick the foam is) and I secure it well on both sides using Scotch Tape. The next part is important push it back into the machine carefully. There is of course a risk with this method ie that the sponge could come off and stick in the machine but I have never had any problems and I have done it many times. An important tip is when removing the sponge bar check to see how it goes into the machine. When the job is done the needles should be flat against the bed. Signs of requiring a new sponge bar is needles that are raised from the bed.

maggi
2011-03-15 11:09:45
Hi
Your machine will take a KR501 or KR506 ribber.
Sponge bars are a bit of a problem – Toyota bars are difficult to find. There is an American website – www.theknittingcloset.com – that has them.
Some people also recommend using a Knitmaster or Silver Reed sponge bar as a replacement because they are fairly narrow.
Hope this helps.
Sue.
Sue P
2011-02-20 14:27:21
Hi
I have found a better alternative to sponge on the sponge bars. I have replaced the sponge with a row of 12 conical springs – the type found in AAA battery packs purchased from Maplins electronics a battery pack costs 89p and has four springs. The springs are attached to the sponge bar then covered with a length of metal tape the type found in retractable tape measures the smaller type which are usually 1 metre long and the same width as the sponge bar. Purchased from our local hardware store they are £1.29 for a twin pack.
When the tape is cut from the holder remember to put Sellotape over each end they are very sharp.
You just have to remember when inserting the sponge bar it has to be inserted upside down so that the springs are facing away from the needles. I use this method in both the main bed and the ribber attachment.
The bar works perfectly and I have been using it for over a year now and the springs are still in perfect condition. Until I created this method the sponge bar was the absolute bain of my life very hard to find and messy to replace on a DIY basis. I hope this helps.
Stivi
2011-09-30 20:23:27

Help with ribber

Thank you.
Barbara

Hi Barbara
You don’t say the make of your machine. If you have a Toyota you push the ribber hard against the main bed before tightening the screws which hold it in place.

For a Brother machine there are adjusting nuts and levers at both ends of the ribber. You’ll be able to see them if you drop the ribber. Check the height of the ribber by pushing it up as far as it will go. Bring several needles at each end of the main bed to holding position. You should be able to slide two of the ribber weight hooks together (flat shiny things with a hole in one end and hooks at the other) between the main bed needles and ribber sinker posts. They should be a snug fit but should not move the needles as you slide them in. To adjust the height drop the ribber loosen the nuts and use the levers to move it up or down. Check the gap and once you have it right re-tighten the nuts but make sure that the levers don’t move. It’s fiddly but with a bit of practise you should be able to get it right.

For adjustments to Silver Reed and Knitmaster machines Mary Weaver has a comprehensive explanation in her book – The Ribbing Attachment Part 2. I hope this helps you sort out the problem.

Kind regards
Sue

Sue P
2011-02-07 16:37:42
Hi Barbara
You don’t say the make of your machine. If you have a Toyota you push the ribber hard against the main bed before tightening the screws which hold it in place.

For a Brother machine there are adjusting nuts and levers at both ends of the ribber. You’ll be able to see them if you drop the ribber. Check the height of the ribber by pushing it up as far as it will go. Bring several needles at each end of the main bed to holding position. You should be able to slide two of the ribber weight hooks together (flat shiny things with a hole in one end and hooks at the other) between the main bed needles and ribber sinker posts. They should be a snug fit but should not move the needles as you slide them in. To adjust the height drop the ribber loosen the nuts and use the levers to move it up or down. Check the gap and once you have it right re-tighten the nuts but make sure that the levers don’t move. It’s fiddly but with a bit of practise you should be able to get it right.

For adjustments to Silver Reed and Knitmaster machines Mary Weaver has a comprehensive explanation in her book – The Ribbing Attachment Part 2. I hope this helps you sort out the problem.

Kind regards
Sue

Sue P
2011-02-07 16:37:42

Bead Accessories

Hi

I saw a lady at Machine Knitting LIVE! at Croydon using an accessory to put beads on to the needles. Can someone please tell me where I can buy one?

Many thanks.

Gayle

Hi Gayle

A fine crochet hook small enough to thread the beads on works well.

You thread a bead onto the crochet hook unhook the stitch slide the bead over the stitch and hook it back on to the needle.

Hope you are successful!

Regards Sue.

Sue P
2010-09-28 10:22:47
Hi there
Thanks for the tips and I would like to see the tools in eBay. Maybe it can help me to find an easier way to do this.
Viridian Energy
2011-02-08 10:37:03
Hello Gayle
I’ve just noticed there is one of these tools on eBay.uk at the moment. Item number: 200569562149
Thought you might be interested
Sue.
Sue P
2011-01-26 16:44:23
Hi . I have a very fine crochet hook which works well.
You put the bead on the hook and slip the stitch onto the hook bringing it through the bead then replace the stitch onto the same latch on the machine .
hope this is helpfull Maree
slippery stitches
2011-03-15 11:09:45
Hi Gayle

A fine crochet hook small enough to thread the beads on works well.

You thread a bead onto the crochet hook unhook the stitch slide the bead over the stitch and hook it back on to the needle.

Hope you are successful!

Regards Sue.

Sue P
2010-09-28 10:22:47
Hi there
Thanks for the tips and I would like to see the tools in eBay. Maybe it can help me to find an easier way to do this.
Viridian Energy
2011-02-08 10:37:03
Hello Gayle
I’ve just noticed there is one of these tools on eBay.uk at the moment. Item number: 200569562149
Thought you might be interested
Sue.
Sue P
2011-01-26 16:44:23
Hi . I have a very fine crochet hook which works well.
You put the bead on the hook and slip the stitch onto the hook bringing it through the bead then replace the stitch onto the same latch on the machine .
hope this is helpfull Maree
slippery stitches
2011-03-15 11:09:45

Dinosaurus

Help!

Many years ago I made my grandchildren toy Dinosaurs from a pattern in a machine knitting magazine, it was either MKM or MKN.

My grandchildren now have children of their own and are asking if I would make them their Dinosaurs again. My pattern was given away years ago, can anyone help me find a pattern? Or do any of you know the pattern I mean and can help me?

This would be the best Christmas present ever for me!

My childs want it too .
Ender
2010-12-21 14:03:17
My childs want it too .
Ender
2010-12-21 14:03:17

Toyota K65-1 Transfer carriage

Hi
Does anyone own a Toyota K65-1 transfer carriage who might be able to help me? I’ve just purchased one but can’t get it to work.

The transfer carriage totally refuses to transfer stitches from the ribber to the main bed but does drop a few, so it’s definitely doing something if not the right thing!

I have a feeling it might be something to do with following Instruction 2 in the manual. It states ‘move ribber sideways by half pitch lever or racking handle’.

If I use the half pitch lever the ribber bed just moves half a point. If I follow the instructions and use the racking handle it tells me to turn the handle two full pitches to right and one to left. This gives a completely different placement of the ribber bed than when using the half pitch lever.

Also when using the racking handle, the diagram on the instructions shows the ribber bed moving from No. 5 to No. 6.5. Surely this a movement of 1.5 pitch and not one pitch? Or is one pitch signified by the numbers and dots? Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated.

Kind regards

christmas stocking

Hi Lynn there is a suggested pattern for Christmas stockings in the current issue of MKM. Very easy to do with pattern suggestions or make your own up.

Regards.

Mary

scary007
2010-11-26 18:19:43
Hi Lynn there is a suggested pattern for Christmas stockings in the current issue of MKM. Very easy to do with pattern suggestions or make your own up.

Regards.

Mary

scary007
2010-11-26 18:19:43