Helpline

Coned yarn storage

Many thanks
Alan

I have purchased large plastic boxes {with little roller type wheels }
Yard is sorted eg.4ply Chunky Weaving and hand knitting.The boxes are stacked and my yarns which have been stored for a good number of years are in perfect condition.
Happy knitting!
Bev
Beverley
2010-03-25 19:56:43
A search in Google for ‘coned yarn storage’ found:
www.camillavalleyfarm.com/weave/bobbinracks.htm – ready made cone storage.
Also http//sewing.about.com/library/weekly/aa122898.htm has a page about making your own storage for thread bobbins which can be attached to the wall. It should be possible to scale it up for yarn bobbins.
Hope this is of some use
Sue.
Sue P
2010-03-25 19:56:43
If you are a practical person with some D.I.Y. skills you can drill several hles in a suitable board and fix borrm handles cut to length to the board. This will allow the cones to slide onto the cut down handles for a cheap and practical storeage.
peggyp
2010-04-03 19:57:10

Patchwork Gallery, Fair Isle Variation

I tried the dotted grit with DAK7 on my Brother KH965. However, I did not get the nice stripes but a dotted picture, same as the chart. What am I doing wrong?
Thank you for any hint
Birgit

Hello Birgit
I think you only need the first row of the pattern to repeat so that the same needles are selected on every row.
Regards
Sue
Sue P
2010-03-14 00:04:37
Hello Birgit
I think you only need the first row of the pattern to repeat so that the same needles are selected on every row.
Regards
Sue
Sue P
2010-03-14 00:04:37

Advices on Knitting Machines and Courses

I am a complete novice and am looking for some advice on knitting mahcines because I would like to buy one and do not know where to start.

Do you know any machine knitting courses in London or near by?
Is there someone out there who can help me?

Dear Chris10

The Guild of Machine Knitters is a good place to start for information on clubs and courses in the London area – www.guild-mach-knit.org.uk

The following website has lots of good links to information about machine knitting and machines – www.needlesofsteel.org.uk

Machine Knitting Monthly has organised an Exhibition at Bournemouth next weekend on Saturday 6 March – see the home page for details. I’ve attended the Croydon show in July over the last two years and there are a variety of exhibitors with a wealth of knowledge who would be able to advise you on what to buy as well as lots of lovely yarn and a fashion show of garments made on domestic machines. It’s a great day out.

Hope this is of help.

Best wishes

Needlesinatwist

needlesinatwist
2010-02-26 22:45:23
Hello Chris I’m in SW London if that’s any help? I’m not a tutor and def not an expert but I can work a machine! Best wishes Sue
Susie
2010-04-15 11:22:08

Brother double bed Jacquard

On reviewing my notes (taken long ago) to attempt double bed jacquard I have noted that there was a ‘Teach In’ article in the May 1990 edition of MKM (!!!) on jacquard knitting.
After so long, might some one have a copy of that magazine?

Alternatively can some one offer explicite instruction on how to programme the machine and actual knit jacquard successfully?
I am finding the instructions in various manuals that I have, rather confusing and I have had no success so far with my attempts.
Is it that difficult? My husband refuses to wear any fairisle sweater with floats until I master the jacquard tecqnique!
Jayangel

Hi Jayangel

Waste no time in ordering an excellent book from Metropolitan written by Yvonne Knapman. It’s for all Japanese Machines and called The Beginner’s Guide to Double Jacquard Knitting. It’s still sought after by machine knitters anxious to master this beautiful stitch. Yvonne’s book contains instructions on how to begin Double Jacquard which yarn to use tension guides and how to convert Fair Isle to Double Jacquard. It also includes a basic pattern for both adults and children and the cost is just £5 including postage. Yvonne has sold all of her copies but you can still buy the book from Metropolitan by calling 01270-628414.
Anne

Anne
2010-02-23 17:27:30
Thank you Anne.
On your recommendation I have ordered the guide from Metropolitan and awaiting delivery.

Thanks for your help!
Jayangel

jayangel
2010-02-25 10:11:06
Hi Jayangel

Waste no time in ordering an excellent book from Metropolitan written by Yvonne Knapman. It’s for all Japanese Machines and called The Beginner’s Guide to Double Jacquard Knitting. It’s still sought after by machine knitters anxious to master this beautiful stitch. Yvonne’s book contains instructions on how to begin Double Jacquard which yarn to use tension guides and how to convert Fair Isle to Double Jacquard. It also includes a basic pattern for both adults and children and the cost is just £5 including postage. Yvonne has sold all of her copies but you can still buy the book from Metropolitan by calling 01270-628414.
Anne

Anne
2010-02-23 17:27:30
Thank you Anne.
On your recommendation I have ordered the guide from Metropolitan and awaiting delivery.

Thanks for your help!
Jayangel

jayangel
2010-02-25 10:11:06

Full Needle Rib

I am following the manual instructions but am finding it really difficult to knit across the stitches. I am using Yeoman panama if that is any help. Is it normal to have to push with all one’s might to get the carriage to go across – I’m afraid of damaging the machine? I’ve increased the tensions but this doesn’t seem to make any difference.

Can anyone help me?
Many thanks.

Hello Alison
Panama is a 4 ply yarn and as such is at the upper limit of what a standard gauge machine can cope with on full needle rib. The carriage will be difficult to push across the needles as they have to cope with the extra thickness of the yarn zig zagging between the beds.

You might be better off trying a sample in 2 or 3 ply; it should be much easier to knit.
regards
Sue

Sue P
2010-02-23 09:35:02
Hi Alison

I couldn’t agree more with Sue don’t struggle any longer trying to push your machine to the limit using Panama and full needle rib. If ordinary 1×1 rib is a bit floppy then try 2×2 (2×1 industrial rib) for a really crisp finish. Knitting-in elastic used on the zigzag and circular rows only will give a neat tight edge. Panama is a beautiful yarn and your machine is a valuable asset. Enjoy both without asking either of them to perform the impossible.
Happy Knitting! Anne

Anne
2010-02-23 17:38:14
Hello Alison
Panama is a 4 ply yarn and as such is at the upper limit of what a standard gauge machine can cope with on full needle rib. The carriage will be difficult to push across the needles as they have to cope with the extra thickness of the yarn zig zagging between the beds.

You might be better off trying a sample in 2 or 3 ply; it should be much easier to knit.
regards
Sue

Sue P
2010-02-23 09:35:02
Hi Alison

I couldn’t agree more with Sue don’t struggle any longer trying to push your machine to the limit using Panama and full needle rib. If ordinary 1×1 rib is a bit floppy then try 2×2 (2×1 industrial rib) for a really crisp finish. Knitting-in elastic used on the zigzag and circular rows only will give a neat tight edge. Panama is a beautiful yarn and your machine is a valuable asset. Enjoy both without asking either of them to perform the impossible.
Happy Knitting! Anne

Anne
2010-02-23 17:38:14

Toyota KS901S

Hi
Yes they are the same machine – it’s the 901 bit that designates which model it is.
Hope you enjoy learning to use your machine; I have one and I’m really pleased with it.
Sue P
2010-02-23 09:35:02

Machinist needed to make 2 garments

My sister is putting together her final year collection for her fashion degree and needs some help!! It will be a long cardigan and depending on how long it takes and the cost, we might need another one very similar. If you are interested please email me direct at calliemeredith@hotmail.com.

Thanks
Callie

Ordering Yarn

Hi Catherine
I run the technical side of the website for Anne – sorry you’ve had a slight problem using Trading Post.

I have to apologise and say that we don’t haven’t the means for you to select yarn colours at the moment so I’ll ask Anne to contact you by email and help you complete your order that way or by phone.

In the mean time I’ll get busy and make sure you can choose yarn colours as soon as I can.

Cheers
Matt

communicatedesign
2010-02-15 21:20:52
Hi Catherine
We’ll work on the website to add colour swatches ASAP and here’s a rough description of the colours.

White Aran (pale cream) Lemon (pale yellow) Pink (light baby pink) Red (bright pillar box red) Sky (light baby blue) Azure (cornflower blue) Navy (very dark blue) Mint (very pale green) Jade (deep turquoise) School Grey (the mid to dark grey of school sweaters) Black.

If you’d like a shade card please e-mail me at the magazine and we can post one to you.

Anne
2010-02-16 09:16:21

Green Ruler

Hi Peggyp
Welcome back!
You need to knit a tension swatch with the yarn you are going to use for your garment in the same stitch as you will use e.g. stocking stitch tuck etc. Your machine manual will give you the instructions.
Once knitted remove it from the machine and roll it up and give it a gentle pull lengthways.
If you will press the finished garment press your tension swatch. If you are using an oiled yarn wash it and allow it to dry. If not allow it to rest for a few hours or overnight before you measure it.
Once it is ready lay it flat and place the end of the green rule with ‘S’ on it against your lefthand
marked stitch. The mark on the rule at the other marked stitch will give you the number of stitches to 10cm. Turn the rule over and place the end with ‘R’ on it over the last row of main yarn and read off the number of rows to 10cm at the beginning of the section of main yarn. You can now use these readings to calculate how many stitches and rows you need to knit.
For example say your readings are 28 stitches and 40 rows to 10cm and you want to knit a piece 24cm x 19cm.
Multiply 24 x 2.8 to get the number of stitches to cast on and 19 x 4 to get the number of rows to knit.
Hope this helps
regards
Sue.
Sue P
2010-02-14 19:58:05
Hi Peggy

You might find the following useful.

THE GREEN RULER
This is an excellent way of measuring the stitch and row tension of machine knitted swatches. It is as accurate as most machine knitters require and can be used on all machines. This formula is used regardless of the stitch pattern used. Start by knitting a swatch in the fabric you’d like to use for your garment. This is simply to determine the tension dial number you need to use for the swatch.

TO MAKE A TENSION SWATCH
Set machine at tension selected above (MT). Make a note of tension and keep it safe!
Push 35 Ns at right and left of centre 0 to WP (70 Ns). This number is flexible but must be over 60.
Transfer 21st stitch at each side of centre 0 to adjacent N and push empty Ns to NWP. This leaves 40 Ns in WP at centre of machine and will create a ladder at each side of 40 stitches.
Using MT and WY cast on and K a few rows ending with carriage at right.
Change to MY and set RC at 000.
Using MT and MY K 20 rows in the stitch pattern to be used for your garment.
Using WY in a good contrast colour K 2 rows stocking stitch.
Change back to MY and pattern and K 60 rows.
Using WY in a good contrast colour K 2 rows stocking stitch.
Change back to MY and pattern and K 20 rows.
Using WY K a few rows and release from machine.

Pull the swatch gently to close up the stitches and then treat the swatch as you will treat your finished garment. Wash and dry cotton Lamb’s Wool Shetland and Cashmere yarns and do not press acrylic unless you intend ‘killing’ the fabric. Leave the swatch for at least four hours or preferably overnight before measuring.

MEASURING STITCHES
Lay the Green Ruler with the end marked ‘S’ on the stitch immediately inside the left ladder. The number shown on the gauge on the last stitch before the right ladder gives the number of stitches to 10 cm or 4 inches.

MEASURING THE ROWS
Lay the Green Ruler with the end marked ‘R’ on the row immediately above the first two contrast rows. The number shown on the gauge next to the row before the last two contrast rows gives the number of rows to 10 cm or 4 inches.

Best wishes from Anne at MKM

Anne
2010-02-16 09:27:06
Hi Peggyp
Welcome back!
You need to knit a tension swatch with the yarn you are going to use for your garment in the same stitch as you will use e.g. stocking stitch tuck etc. Your machine manual will give you the instructions.
Once knitted remove it from the machine and roll it up and give it a gentle pull lengthways.
If you will press the finished garment press your tension swatch. If you are using an oiled yarn wash it and allow it to dry. If not allow it to rest for a few hours or overnight before you measure it.
Once it is ready lay it flat and place the end of the green rule with ‘S’ on it against your lefthand
marked stitch. The mark on the rule at the other marked stitch will give you the number of stitches to 10cm. Turn the rule over and place the end with ‘R’ on it over the last row of main yarn and read off the number of rows to 10cm at the beginning of the section of main yarn. You can now use these readings to calculate how many stitches and rows you need to knit.
For example say your readings are 28 stitches and 40 rows to 10cm and you want to knit a piece 24cm x 19cm.
Multiply 24 x 2.8 to get the number of stitches to cast on and 19 x 4 to get the number of rows to knit.
Hope this helps
regards
Sue.
Sue P
2010-02-14 19:58:05
Hi Peggy

You might find the following useful.

THE GREEN RULER
This is an excellent way of measuring the stitch and row tension of machine knitted swatches. It is as accurate as most machine knitters require and can be used on all machines. This formula is used regardless of the stitch pattern used. Start by knitting a swatch in the fabric you’d like to use for your garment. This is simply to determine the tension dial number you need to use for the swatch.

TO MAKE A TENSION SWATCH
Set machine at tension selected above (MT). Make a note of tension and keep it safe!
Push 35 Ns at right and left of centre 0 to WP (70 Ns). This number is flexible but must be over 60.
Transfer 21st stitch at each side of centre 0 to adjacent N and push empty Ns to NWP. This leaves 40 Ns in WP at centre of machine and will create a ladder at each side of 40 stitches.
Using MT and WY cast on and K a few rows ending with carriage at right.
Change to MY and set RC at 000.
Using MT and MY K 20 rows in the stitch pattern to be used for your garment.
Using WY in a good contrast colour K 2 rows stocking stitch.
Change back to MY and pattern and K 60 rows.
Using WY in a good contrast colour K 2 rows stocking stitch.
Change back to MY and pattern and K 20 rows.
Using WY K a few rows and release from machine.

Pull the swatch gently to close up the stitches and then treat the swatch as you will treat your finished garment. Wash and dry cotton Lamb’s Wool Shetland and Cashmere yarns and do not press acrylic unless you intend ‘killing’ the fabric. Leave the swatch for at least four hours or preferably overnight before measuring.

MEASURING STITCHES
Lay the Green Ruler with the end marked ‘S’ on the stitch immediately inside the left ladder. The number shown on the gauge on the last stitch before the right ladder gives the number of stitches to 10 cm or 4 inches.

MEASURING THE ROWS
Lay the Green Ruler with the end marked ‘R’ on the row immediately above the first two contrast rows. The number shown on the gauge next to the row before the last two contrast rows gives the number of rows to 10 cm or 4 inches.

Best wishes from Anne at MKM

Anne
2010-02-16 09:27:06

Mock Rib

I have a silver reed 840 and when I do the first line everything is ok, but when I put the carriage back all the stitches fall off. it works fine if I cast on by hand.

Thanks.

Hi with regard to your problem when doing mock rib.

After doing the first row push all the needles out to d position for the next 4/6 rows and knit the rows – this should resolve your problem. After the initial 4/6 rows just knit normally.

Linda Collins
2010-01-28 20:57:59
Hi with regard to your problem when doing mock rib.

After doing the first row push all the needles out to d position for the next 4/6 rows and knit the rows – this should resolve your problem. After the initial 4/6 rows just knit normally.

Linda Collins
2010-01-28 20:57:59