Hi
I’m having major problems with tension and measuring it. I could not match the tension suggested so used DesignaKnit for the tension square I had. However the yarn is so stretchy that you can measure the same piece several times and get very different measurements. Any suggestions?
Helpline
Knitmaster 120 Chunky Spongebar
Hi
I’m getting quite desperate now. I bought a lovely chunky machine, a Knitmaster Empisal 120 which I’m told was also sold under the name Singer SK120. I intend to use this to knit sock blanks for dyeing. However I can’t get started as I cannot find a replacement sponge bar for this machine. I will even consider a kit to refurbish if necessary. The bar is very narrow compared to the one from my Brother KH-836 (about 3 mm across and 8 mm deep). I can’t get my business off the ground until this is up and running!
Many thanks, Jenni Pitt
i contacted Silver – and they do not have a replacement for the 120 Sponge Bars.
If you are a memmber of Yahoo Groups there a few people with “ideas” on how to replace a 120 sponge.
Yahoo has JUSt changed their layout and I cannot find which group I saw it in yesterday.
If you are a memmber of Yahoo Groups there a few people with “ideas” on how to replace a 120 sponge.
Yahoo has JUSt changed their layout and I cannot find which group I saw it in yesterday.
Kari
2013-09-12 16:57:44
Jenni If you join the Sk120/Bulky Yahoo Group(very easy to do). In the files is pdf of how to refurbish your existing sponge bar. Avril
esme48
2013-09-12 16:57:44
Hi
I’ve owned many SK-120s over the years and trying to refurbish the sponge bar is a nightmare. The last one I had (two years ago) I tried so many times that in the end the metal just became non-usable. Frustrated I looked around my garage and found a thin flat rigid metal bar to which I glued a thin length of sponge with ribbon on top. I slid it into the machine and it worked brilliantly. So my advice is this: think outside the box. A rigid piece of plastic or maybe even wood that would fill the retaining channel should serve equally well as a good base for the sponge. This is a very ‘forgiving’ machine and you can’t break it by trying. I’ve just been lucky enough to win another 120 on eBay (arriving on Tuesday) and despite that one shortcoming I believe this to be the best chunky/bulky machine out there as its stitches are far more attractive than those produced on a 9 mm machine.
I’ve owned many SK-120s over the years and trying to refurbish the sponge bar is a nightmare. The last one I had (two years ago) I tried so many times that in the end the metal just became non-usable. Frustrated I looked around my garage and found a thin flat rigid metal bar to which I glued a thin length of sponge with ribbon on top. I slid it into the machine and it worked brilliantly. So my advice is this: think outside the box. A rigid piece of plastic or maybe even wood that would fill the retaining channel should serve equally well as a good base for the sponge. This is a very ‘forgiving’ machine and you can’t break it by trying. I’ve just been lucky enough to win another 120 on eBay (arriving on Tuesday) and despite that one shortcoming I believe this to be the best chunky/bulky machine out there as its stitches are far more attractive than those produced on a 9 mm machine.
britlady52
2014-02-26 17:50:24
Hi
In the September issue of MKM in Trading Post p.46 there are Chunky Needle Retaining Bars listed in the Silver Reed section. The code is SR26 and the price is £33.75. You need to state the model number of the machine. However they are not listed on the Trading Post on this Website. It might be worth contacting Silver Reed to see if they are still available.
Another thing to try is to replace the sponge with some draught excluder. The brown type is best as it has a firm top and the consistency of the foam is about right. You might need two layers of it on your bar. Make sure it is well stuck and bind the ends with tape to hold them in place.
I hope you can get it sorted and happy knitting.
Sue
Sue P
2013-08-16 13:47:04
i contacted Silver – and they do not have a replacement for the 120 Sponge Bars.
If you are a memmber of Yahoo Groups there a few people with “ideas” on how to replace a 120 sponge.
Yahoo has JUSt changed their layout and I cannot find which group I saw it in yesterday.
If you are a memmber of Yahoo Groups there a few people with “ideas” on how to replace a 120 sponge.
Yahoo has JUSt changed their layout and I cannot find which group I saw it in yesterday.
Kari
2013-09-12 16:57:44
Jenni If you join the Sk120/Bulky Yahoo Group(very easy to do). In the files is pdf of how to refurbish your existing sponge bar. Avril
esme48
2013-09-12 16:57:44
Hi
I’ve owned many SK-120s over the years and trying to refurbish the sponge bar is a nightmare. The last one I had (two years ago) I tried so many times that in the end the metal just became non-usable. Frustrated I looked around my garage and found a thin flat rigid metal bar to which I glued a thin length of sponge with ribbon on top. I slid it into the machine and it worked brilliantly. So my advice is this: think outside the box. A rigid piece of plastic or maybe even wood that would fill the retaining channel should serve equally well as a good base for the sponge. This is a very ‘forgiving’ machine and you can’t break it by trying. I’ve just been lucky enough to win another 120 on eBay (arriving on Tuesday) and despite that one shortcoming I believe this to be the best chunky/bulky machine out there as its stitches are far more attractive than those produced on a 9 mm machine.
I’ve owned many SK-120s over the years and trying to refurbish the sponge bar is a nightmare. The last one I had (two years ago) I tried so many times that in the end the metal just became non-usable. Frustrated I looked around my garage and found a thin flat rigid metal bar to which I glued a thin length of sponge with ribbon on top. I slid it into the machine and it worked brilliantly. So my advice is this: think outside the box. A rigid piece of plastic or maybe even wood that would fill the retaining channel should serve equally well as a good base for the sponge. This is a very ‘forgiving’ machine and you can’t break it by trying. I’ve just been lucky enough to win another 120 on eBay (arriving on Tuesday) and despite that one shortcoming I believe this to be the best chunky/bulky machine out there as its stitches are far more attractive than those produced on a 9 mm machine.
britlady52
2014-02-26 17:50:24
Brother KH910
Hi
I’ve just gone back to my knitting machine now I am retired and cannot find my Mylar sheets. Does anyone know where I can get any? There are a few used and unused on eBay, but unused are expensive. Thanks for any help.
Hi
Keep looking on ebay there have been more advertised over the past few days.
Sue.
Sue P
2013-08-15 21:21:16
Moss stitch on 2 needles when attached to GC
Needles 52-60 knit in moss stitch when knitting from right to left. The sponge bar and all needles, including the garter carriage needle, have been checked. The garter carriage has also been tried out on two other similar Brother machines. Do I need a new circuit board, because it will knit some patterns from the manual. Has anyone else has this trouble? I’d welcome any help please.
Brother KH836 Carriage jamming
I got my Brother KH 836 machine out to knit up some left over wool to make myself a jumper. After lots of attempts with the ribber (the rib carriage kept coming unhitched!) I made the back and was nearly at the front neck shaping when the carriage jammed. It would knit right to left okay, but moving left to right it jammed in the middle every time. After a lot of shoving and a LOT more swearing, I got it moving again to finish the row, but after about ten more rows of this I gave it up as a bad job. It moves freely in each direction without the sinker plate, but not with it on. I’ve prodded, poked, sworn a lot more, thought I’d sorted it, but after about 15 rows it happened again. Can anyone give me a clue as to what might be the problem? I feel like taking the whole lot to the tip!
Bring your needles out and with no yarn and sinker plate attached go slowly across the needles and when it starts to jam check whether the needles are going over the sinker plate or just touching it. Often the sinker plate becomes slightly bent out of shape and may need realigning and bent back into shape.
Re your ribber – sounds like the height may need adjusting if you have it in the highest position and the connecting pin is still slipping out.
jaysdowell
2013-08-09 15:14:16
Hi PollyDoodle
Sorry to hear of your problem. There are several things it might be an idea to check.
As the carriage moves freely without the sinker plate attached it suggests the problem is with the sinker plate. Is it seated properly on the carriage? Make sure the alignment holes in the sinker plate fit over the little lugs on the carriage before you tighten the thumb screws. Have the metal plates at the front gone out of alignment? When you attach it to the carriage check that these plates are parallel to the gate pegs and re-adjust if necessary by loosening the three screws underneath.
Does your sponge bar need replacing? If it’s worn it will cause all sorts of problems.
Regarding your problem with the ribber carriage did you have the ribber pushed up to its highest position and was the carriage seated properly on the needle bed? Once the ribber carriage has clipped into the connecting arm it should not move forward or unhitch itself!
I hope this helps you sort the problem.
Regards
Sue.
Sue P
2013-06-12 21:53:47
Bring your needles out and with no yarn and sinker plate attached go slowly across the needles and when it starts to jam check whether the needles are going over the sinker plate or just touching it. Often the sinker plate becomes slightly bent out of shape and may need realigning and bent back into shape.
Re your ribber – sounds like the height may need adjusting if you have it in the highest position and the connecting pin is still slipping out.
jaysdowell
2013-08-09 15:14:16
Hi PollyDoodle
Sorry to hear of your problem. There are several things it might be an idea to check.
As the carriage moves freely without the sinker plate attached it suggests the problem is with the sinker plate. Is it seated properly on the carriage? Make sure the alignment holes in the sinker plate fit over the little lugs on the carriage before you tighten the thumb screws. Have the metal plates at the front gone out of alignment? When you attach it to the carriage check that these plates are parallel to the gate pegs and re-adjust if necessary by loosening the three screws underneath.
Does your sponge bar need replacing? If it’s worn it will cause all sorts of problems.
Regarding your problem with the ribber carriage did you have the ribber pushed up to its highest position and was the carriage seated properly on the needle bed? Once the ribber carriage has clipped into the connecting arm it should not move forward or unhitch itself!
I hope this helps you sort the problem.
Regards
Sue.
Sue P
2013-06-12 21:53:47
Duo 80 needle position
I bought the Duo 80 secondhand. I’ve always wanted one, but I’m not very successful with the sample pieces in the manual. When the handle is down, in which position should the needles be? Mine are head to head, so is this correct@ I managed the knit/knit but as soon as I started the Fisherman’s rib section, the lock jammed. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks, Sue
Dear Sue
Thank you so much for your reply. We managed to find a service manual download for the machine and discovered that not only was the handle in the wrong position but the front bed was too high. This caused the back needles to hit the teeth and so jammed the lock. Using the download instructions my husband adjusted the settings and now it knits really well. I have tried knit/knit long stitch and Fisherman’s rib and can’t wait to really get going.
Thanks again for your help.
Sue
Thank you so much for your reply. We managed to find a service manual download for the machine and discovered that not only was the handle in the wrong position but the front bed was too high. This caused the back needles to hit the teeth and so jammed the lock. Using the download instructions my husband adjusted the settings and now it knits really well. I have tried knit/knit long stitch and Fisherman’s rib and can’t wait to really get going.
Thanks again for your help.
Sue
susieque01
2013-05-08 16:35:23
Hi Sue
Congratulations on your purchase. I’m sure you will enjoy knitting on your Duo.
Sometimes the racking handle gets put in the wrong way up. I’ve looked in the instruction book and it’s not very clear as to how it should be positioned.
The racking handle should be UP for the needles to be opposite each other. This position is used when knitting with 1×1 needle set up.
When the racking handle is DOWN the needles face the striking combs on the opposite bed. You use this position whenever there are two or more adjacent needles knitting on either bed.
With no knitting on the machine rack the beds until they line up at the sides i.e. the very end needles are opposite each other. If the racking handle is down take it out by pulling it forward firmly. Then re-insert it in the up position making sure the clip on indicator fits into the slot under the front of the machine.
It should now be in the correct position.
Kind regards
Sue.
Sue P
2013-05-08 13:37:14
Dear Sue
Thank you so much for your reply. We managed to find a service manual download for the machine and discovered that not only was the handle in the wrong position but the front bed was too high. This caused the back needles to hit the teeth and so jammed the lock. Using the download instructions my husband adjusted the settings and now it knits really well. I have tried knit/knit long stitch and Fisherman’s rib and can’t wait to really get going.
Thanks again for your help.
Sue
Thank you so much for your reply. We managed to find a service manual download for the machine and discovered that not only was the handle in the wrong position but the front bed was too high. This caused the back needles to hit the teeth and so jammed the lock. Using the download instructions my husband adjusted the settings and now it knits really well. I have tried knit/knit long stitch and Fisherman’s rib and can’t wait to really get going.
Thanks again for your help.
Sue
susieque01
2013-05-08 16:35:23
Hi Sue
Congratulations on your purchase. I’m sure you will enjoy knitting on your Duo.
Sometimes the racking handle gets put in the wrong way up. I’ve looked in the instruction book and it’s not very clear as to how it should be positioned.
The racking handle should be UP for the needles to be opposite each other. This position is used when knitting with 1×1 needle set up.
When the racking handle is DOWN the needles face the striking combs on the opposite bed. You use this position whenever there are two or more adjacent needles knitting on either bed.
With no knitting on the machine rack the beds until they line up at the sides i.e. the very end needles are opposite each other. If the racking handle is down take it out by pulling it forward firmly. Then re-insert it in the up position making sure the clip on indicator fits into the slot under the front of the machine.
It should now be in the correct position.
Kind regards
Sue.
Sue P
2013-05-08 13:37:14
Toyota KS 901 not stitching
I have had this machine given to me and its in full working order complete with manuals and pattern books. I have briefly been on a machine knit course through university so I know all the basics, but I wanted to expand my knowledge and start making! I’ve followed the instructions to the dot in setting it up and at first it would do a quick cast on (right to left) and on the way back it would just miss the needles and not stitch. After searching the internet and asking friends they mentioned the sponge bar..It was completely flat! I got some draft excluder and changed it in hope it would work! Now its not picking up and stitches either way and its driving me insane! All the settings and dials are correct. I’ve checked the carriage brushes and wheels for wrapped thread and there isn’t any. I don’t know where to go next with it!? If anyone can help it would be amazing.
Thanks, Jade
Hi Jade
Sorry to hear you are having problems. When you put the draught excluder on the bar did you tape round the ends to keep it in place? This is very important to stop it peeling off inside the machine. Now that you have this new sponge in place are the needles held down at the front of the machine or are they raised slightly? They should be held down by the sponge. (I find the brown draught excluder works best as it has a smooth finish and the white stuff is too dense.)
Next make sure the carriage is seated properly on the machine. Take off the sinker plate and remove the carriage. Then slide it on from one end making sure that the back slides under the lip at the back of the machine and the front slides under the lip at the front. You should not be able to lift the carriage at all unless you use the orange lever. You can check by bringing out a few needles and running the carriage over them with no yarn. You will be able to see if they are moving properly. Then fit the sinker plate making sure it seats properly on the lugs on the carriage.
When you have re-threaded the carriage bring out alternate needles and using a low tension number knit across and you should have a loop on every needle. Hang the cast on comb. Change the tension to one suitable for the yarn you are using and knit back. You should have alternate loops and stitches. You should be able to continue knitting.
I do hope you get your machine to work properly.
Kind regards
Sue.
Sue P
2013-05-01 11:28:38
Hi Jade
Sorry to hear you are having problems. When you put the draught excluder on the bar did you tape round the ends to keep it in place? This is very important to stop it peeling off inside the machine. Now that you have this new sponge in place are the needles held down at the front of the machine or are they raised slightly? They should be held down by the sponge. (I find the brown draught excluder works best as it has a smooth finish and the white stuff is too dense.)
Next make sure the carriage is seated properly on the machine. Take off the sinker plate and remove the carriage. Then slide it on from one end making sure that the back slides under the lip at the back of the machine and the front slides under the lip at the front. You should not be able to lift the carriage at all unless you use the orange lever. You can check by bringing out a few needles and running the carriage over them with no yarn. You will be able to see if they are moving properly. Then fit the sinker plate making sure it seats properly on the lugs on the carriage.
When you have re-threaded the carriage bring out alternate needles and using a low tension number knit across and you should have a loop on every needle. Hang the cast on comb. Change the tension to one suitable for the yarn you are using and knit back. You should have alternate loops and stitches. You should be able to continue knitting.
I do hope you get your machine to work properly.
Kind regards
Sue.
Sue P
2013-05-01 11:28:38
Garter carriage speed up
I’m looking for Elaine Cater’s attachment that speeds up the garter carriage. It clamps onto the table and garter carriage, has arms that hang down and changes the direction of the garter carriage and speeds it up. It looks like a doggy with a wobbly head. Where can I buy one?
Why not contact Elaine Cater direct to ask her
advice? I would certainly be interested and I am sure
other knitters would like to know. Muriel
advice? I would certainly be interested and I am sure
other knitters would like to know. Muriel
Muriel Hunt
2013-05-08 12:40:52
Hi
I think you mean a Garter Carriage Monitor. Here is a link to information about it but I don’t know if it’s still available as the page was updated last October.
www.customknitsmfg.net/gcarriagemonitor.html”Ž
BSK sell Garter Carriage Turn Round cams which fit into the back of the needle slots at the edge of the knitting and are designed to make the carriage turn faster than it normally would.
Hope this helps
Sue.
I think you mean a Garter Carriage Monitor. Here is a link to information about it but I don’t know if it’s still available as the page was updated last October.
www.customknitsmfg.net/gcarriagemonitor.html”Ž
BSK sell Garter Carriage Turn Round cams which fit into the back of the needle slots at the edge of the knitting and are designed to make the carriage turn faster than it normally would.
Hope this helps
Sue.
Sue P
2013-05-07 15:41:37
Hi again
If the above link does not work try a google search for garter carriage monitor and you will find it.
Sue.
If the above link does not work try a google search for garter carriage monitor and you will find it.
Sue.
Sue P
2013-05-07 15:49:29
I would be delighted to sell my GC monitor – it’s in excellent condition.
gilly
2015-10-15 12:43:46
Knitting pattern for garment with hood
Does anyone have a machine knitting pattern for a garment with a hood please?
Hi
I have found the following patterns in back issues of Machine Knitting Monthly:
Woman’s Hooded tunic p.30 January 2010
Child’s Hooded Jacket p.24 November 2012
Young Child’s Hooded Jacket and Sweater p.30 March 2012
Baby’s Hooded Jacket p.18 February 2012
According to the latest issue of the magazine all the 2012 magazines are still available but the January 2010 issue is sold out. You might be able to find one on ebay.
There are also sites on the Internet that have free patterns; try a search on ‘Google’.
Hoping this is what you are looking for.
Regards
Sue.
I have found the following patterns in back issues of Machine Knitting Monthly:
Woman’s Hooded tunic p.30 January 2010
Child’s Hooded Jacket p.24 November 2012
Young Child’s Hooded Jacket and Sweater p.30 March 2012
Baby’s Hooded Jacket p.18 February 2012
According to the latest issue of the magazine all the 2012 magazines are still available but the January 2010 issue is sold out. You might be able to find one on ebay.
There are also sites on the Internet that have free patterns; try a search on ‘Google’.
Hoping this is what you are looking for.
Regards
Sue.
Sue P
2013-05-06 20:46:27
Thank you very much Sue – I’ll get on ebay and start looking for the Jan 2010 issue.
Regards Magsie
Regards Magsie
magsieleaper
2013-05-08 12:40:52
Hi
I have found the following patterns in back issues of Machine Knitting Monthly:
Woman’s Hooded tunic p.30 January 2010
Child’s Hooded Jacket p.24 November 2012
Young Child’s Hooded Jacket and Sweater p.30 March 2012
Baby’s Hooded Jacket p.18 February 2012
According to the latest issue of the magazine all the 2012 magazines are still available but the January 2010 issue is sold out. You might be able to find one on ebay.
There are also sites on the Internet that have free patterns; try a search on ‘Google’.
Hoping this is what you are looking for.
Regards
Sue.
I have found the following patterns in back issues of Machine Knitting Monthly:
Woman’s Hooded tunic p.30 January 2010
Child’s Hooded Jacket p.24 November 2012
Young Child’s Hooded Jacket and Sweater p.30 March 2012
Baby’s Hooded Jacket p.18 February 2012
According to the latest issue of the magazine all the 2012 magazines are still available but the January 2010 issue is sold out. You might be able to find one on ebay.
There are also sites on the Internet that have free patterns; try a search on ‘Google’.
Hoping this is what you are looking for.
Regards
Sue.
Sue P
2013-05-06 20:46:27
Thank you very much Sue – I’ll get on ebay and start looking for the Jan 2010 issue.
Regards Magsie
Regards Magsie
magsieleaper
2013-05-08 12:40:52
V’ neckbands
I have had several unsuccessful attempts to machine knit a sweater with a ‘V’ neckband. Can anyone suggest an easy method please.
Hi Annie
When you get to the point where you need to divide the work for the ‘V’ neck it is probably easiest to remove the lefthand stitches on waste yarn and remove any weights that you have on that side of the knitting. You can then knit the first side of the ‘V’ without worrying about the other stitches. Then place the stitches back on to the needles and knit the second side.
An easy band for a ‘V’ neck is to knit straight pieces of ribbing one for one side of the ‘V’ and one to go across the back neck and along the other side of the ‘V’. If you knit the required depth of ribbing then transfer the stitches from the ribber to the main bed and knit one row at main tension it gives a neat edge against the garment. Then you can pick up the stitches from the garment with the wrong side facing you knit one row at main tension and one row at tension 10 and latch off the stitches. To finish just overlap the front ends of the rib and stitch down along the line of the ‘V’.
I have knitted this many times and it always gives a neat finish.
I hope this helps
regards Sue.
Sue P
2013-05-01 11:48:49
Hi Annie
When you get to the point where you need to divide the work for the ‘V’ neck it is probably easiest to remove the lefthand stitches on waste yarn and remove any weights that you have on that side of the knitting. You can then knit the first side of the ‘V’ without worrying about the other stitches. Then place the stitches back on to the needles and knit the second side.
An easy band for a ‘V’ neck is to knit straight pieces of ribbing one for one side of the ‘V’ and one to go across the back neck and along the other side of the ‘V’. If you knit the required depth of ribbing then transfer the stitches from the ribber to the main bed and knit one row at main tension it gives a neat edge against the garment. Then you can pick up the stitches from the garment with the wrong side facing you knit one row at main tension and one row at tension 10 and latch off the stitches. To finish just overlap the front ends of the rib and stitch down along the line of the ‘V’.
I have knitted this many times and it always gives a neat finish.
I hope this helps
regards Sue.
Sue P
2013-05-01 11:48:49
In the September issue of MKM in Trading Post p.46 there are Chunky Needle Retaining Bars listed in the Silver Reed section. The code is SR26 and the price is £33.75. You need to state the model number of the machine. However they are not listed on the Trading Post on this Website. It might be worth contacting Silver Reed to see if they are still available.
Another thing to try is to replace the sponge with some draught excluder. The brown type is best as it has a firm top and the consistency of the foam is about right. You might need two layers of it on your bar. Make sure it is well stuck and bind the ends with tape to hold them in place.
I hope you can get it sorted and happy knitting.
Sue