Machines

Hi Jayangel

Waste no time in ordering an excellent book from Metropolitan written by Yvonne Knapman. It’s for all Japanese Machines and called The Beginner’s Guide to Double Jacquard Knitting. It’s still sought after by machine knitters anxious to master this beautiful stitch. Yvonne’s book contains instructions on how to begin Double Jacquard which yarn to use tension guides and how to convert Fair Isle to Double Jacquard. It also includes a basic pattern for both adults and children and the cost is just £5 including postage. Yvonne has sold all of her copies but you can still buy the book from Metropolitan by calling 01270-628414.
Anne

Thank you Anne.
On your recommendation I have ordered the guide from Metropolitan and awaiting delivery.

Thanks for your help!
Jayangel

Hi Jayangel

Waste no time in ordering an excellent book from Metropolitan written by Yvonne Knapman. It’s for all Japanese Machines and called The Beginner’s Guide to Double Jacquard Knitting. It’s still sought after by machine knitters anxious to master this beautiful stitch. Yvonne’s book contains instructions on how to begin Double Jacquard which yarn to use tension guides and how to convert Fair Isle to Double Jacquard. It also includes a basic pattern for both adults and children and the cost is just £5 including postage. Yvonne has sold all of her copies but you can still buy the book from Metropolitan by calling 01270-628414.
Anne

Thank you Anne.
On your recommendation I have ordered the guide from Metropolitan and awaiting delivery.

Thanks for your help!
Jayangel

Hello Alison
Panama is a 4 ply yarn and as such is at the upper limit of what a standard gauge machine can cope with on full needle rib. The carriage will be difficult to push across the needles as they have to cope with the extra thickness of the yarn zig zagging between the beds.

You might be better off trying a sample in 2 or 3 ply; it should be much easier to knit.
regards
Sue

Hi Alison

I couldn’t agree more with Sue don’t struggle any longer trying to push your machine to the limit using Panama and full needle rib. If ordinary 1×1 rib is a bit floppy then try 2×2 (2×1 industrial rib) for a really crisp finish. Knitting-in elastic used on the zigzag and circular rows only will give a neat tight edge. Panama is a beautiful yarn and your machine is a valuable asset. Enjoy both without asking either of them to perform the impossible.
Happy Knitting! Anne

Hello Alison
Panama is a 4 ply yarn and as such is at the upper limit of what a standard gauge machine can cope with on full needle rib. The carriage will be difficult to push across the needles as they have to cope with the extra thickness of the yarn zig zagging between the beds.

You might be better off trying a sample in 2 or 3 ply; it should be much easier to knit.
regards
Sue

Hi Alison

I couldn’t agree more with Sue don’t struggle any longer trying to push your machine to the limit using Panama and full needle rib. If ordinary 1×1 rib is a bit floppy then try 2×2 (2×1 industrial rib) for a really crisp finish. Knitting-in elastic used on the zigzag and circular rows only will give a neat tight edge. Panama is a beautiful yarn and your machine is a valuable asset. Enjoy both without asking either of them to perform the impossible.
Happy Knitting! Anne

Hi Peggyp
Welcome back!
You need to knit a tension swatch with the yarn you are going to use for your garment in the same stitch as you will use e.g. stocking stitch tuck etc. Your machine manual will give you the instructions.
Once knitted remove it from the machine and roll it up and give it a gentle pull lengthways.
If you will press the finished garment press your tension swatch. If you are using an oiled yarn wash it and allow it to dry. If not allow it to rest for a few hours or overnight before you measure it.
Once it is ready lay it flat and place the end of the green rule with ‘S’ on it against your lefthand
marked stitch. The mark on the rule at the other marked stitch will give you the number of stitches to 10cm. Turn the rule over and place the end with ‘R’ on it over the last row of main yarn and read off the number of rows to 10cm at the beginning of the section of main yarn. You can now use these readings to calculate how many stitches and rows you need to knit.
For example say your readings are 28 stitches and 40 rows to 10cm and you want to knit a piece 24cm x 19cm.
Multiply 24 x 2.8 to get the number of stitches to cast on and 19 x 4 to get the number of rows to knit.
Hope this helps
regards
Sue.

Hi Peggy

You might find the following useful.

THE GREEN RULER
This is an excellent way of measuring the stitch and row tension of machine knitted swatches. It is as accurate as most machine knitters require and can be used on all machines. This formula is used regardless of the stitch pattern used. Start by knitting a swatch in the fabric you’d like to use for your garment. This is simply to determine the tension dial number you need to use for the swatch.

TO MAKE A TENSION SWATCH
Set machine at tension selected above (MT). Make a note of tension and keep it safe!
Push 35 Ns at right and left of centre 0 to WP (70 Ns). This number is flexible but must be over 60.
Transfer 21st stitch at each side of centre 0 to adjacent N and push empty Ns to NWP. This leaves 40 Ns in WP at centre of machine and will create a ladder at each side of 40 stitches.
Using MT and WY cast on and K a few rows ending with carriage at right.
Change to MY and set RC at 000.
Using MT and MY K 20 rows in the stitch pattern to be used for your garment.
Using WY in a good contrast colour K 2 rows stocking stitch.
Change back to MY and pattern and K 60 rows.
Using WY in a good contrast colour K 2 rows stocking stitch.
Change back to MY and pattern and K 20 rows.
Using WY K a few rows and release from machine.

Pull the swatch gently to close up the stitches and then treat the swatch as you will treat your finished garment. Wash and dry cotton Lamb’s Wool Shetland and Cashmere yarns and do not press acrylic unless you intend ‘killing’ the fabric. Leave the swatch for at least four hours or preferably overnight before measuring.

MEASURING STITCHES
Lay the Green Ruler with the end marked ‘S’ on the stitch immediately inside the left ladder. The number shown on the gauge on the last stitch before the right ladder gives the number of stitches to 10 cm or 4 inches.

MEASURING THE ROWS
Lay the Green Ruler with the end marked ‘R’ on the row immediately above the first two contrast rows. The number shown on the gauge next to the row before the last two contrast rows gives the number of rows to 10 cm or 4 inches.

Best wishes from Anne at MKM

Hi Peggyp
Welcome back!
You need to knit a tension swatch with the yarn you are going to use for your garment in the same stitch as you will use e.g. stocking stitch tuck etc. Your machine manual will give you the instructions.
Once knitted remove it from the machine and roll it up and give it a gentle pull lengthways.
If you will press the finished garment press your tension swatch. If you are using an oiled yarn wash it and allow it to dry. If not allow it to rest for a few hours or overnight before you measure it.
Once it is ready lay it flat and place the end of the green rule with ‘S’ on it against your lefthand
marked stitch. The mark on the rule at the other marked stitch will give you the number of stitches to 10cm. Turn the rule over and place the end with ‘R’ on it over the last row of main yarn and read off the number of rows to 10cm at the beginning of the section of main yarn. You can now use these readings to calculate how many stitches and rows you need to knit.
For example say your readings are 28 stitches and 40 rows to 10cm and you want to knit a piece 24cm x 19cm.
Multiply 24 x 2.8 to get the number of stitches to cast on and 19 x 4 to get the number of rows to knit.
Hope this helps
regards
Sue.

Hi Peggy

You might find the following useful.

THE GREEN RULER
This is an excellent way of measuring the stitch and row tension of machine knitted swatches. It is as accurate as most machine knitters require and can be used on all machines. This formula is used regardless of the stitch pattern used. Start by knitting a swatch in the fabric you’d like to use for your garment. This is simply to determine the tension dial number you need to use for the swatch.

TO MAKE A TENSION SWATCH
Set machine at tension selected above (MT). Make a note of tension and keep it safe!
Push 35 Ns at right and left of centre 0 to WP (70 Ns). This number is flexible but must be over 60.
Transfer 21st stitch at each side of centre 0 to adjacent N and push empty Ns to NWP. This leaves 40 Ns in WP at centre of machine and will create a ladder at each side of 40 stitches.
Using MT and WY cast on and K a few rows ending with carriage at right.
Change to MY and set RC at 000.
Using MT and MY K 20 rows in the stitch pattern to be used for your garment.
Using WY in a good contrast colour K 2 rows stocking stitch.
Change back to MY and pattern and K 60 rows.
Using WY in a good contrast colour K 2 rows stocking stitch.
Change back to MY and pattern and K 20 rows.
Using WY K a few rows and release from machine.

Pull the swatch gently to close up the stitches and then treat the swatch as you will treat your finished garment. Wash and dry cotton Lamb’s Wool Shetland and Cashmere yarns and do not press acrylic unless you intend ‘killing’ the fabric. Leave the swatch for at least four hours or preferably overnight before measuring.

MEASURING STITCHES
Lay the Green Ruler with the end marked ‘S’ on the stitch immediately inside the left ladder. The number shown on the gauge on the last stitch before the right ladder gives the number of stitches to 10 cm or 4 inches.

MEASURING THE ROWS
Lay the Green Ruler with the end marked ‘R’ on the row immediately above the first two contrast rows. The number shown on the gauge next to the row before the last two contrast rows gives the number of rows to 10 cm or 4 inches.

Best wishes from Anne at MKM

Hi with regard to your problem when doing mock rib.

After doing the first row push all the needles out to d position for the next 4/6 rows and knit the rows – this should resolve your problem. After the initial 4/6 rows just knit normally.

Hi with regard to your problem when doing mock rib.

After doing the first row push all the needles out to d position for the next 4/6 rows and knit the rows – this should resolve your problem. After the initial 4/6 rows just knit normally.

Put the needles in a jam jar top up with surgical spirit and a teaspoon of machine oil. Put the lid on and leave to soak while you clean the machine.
Vacuuming will remove most of the fluff but an old needle can be used to pick out any stubborn bits. Wipe the needlebed and rails with a cloth lightly moistened with oil (don’t use WD40).
Now for the needles: Give the jar a shake to loosen the dirt. Remove needles one at a time and wipe on the oily cloth checking for bent needles and stiff latches. Replace each one as you go.
Use a lightly oiled cloth to wipe the underside of the carriage.

Put the needles in a jam jar top up with surgical spirit and a teaspoon of machine oil. Put the lid on and leave to soak while you clean the machine.
Vacuuming will remove most of the fluff but an old needle can be used to pick out any stubborn bits. Wipe the needlebed and rails with a cloth lightly moistened with oil (don’t use WD40).
Now for the needles: Give the jar a shake to loosen the dirt. Remove needles one at a time and wipe on the oily cloth checking for bent needles and stiff latches. Replace each one as you go.
Use a lightly oiled cloth to wipe the underside of the carriage.

Hi
I’m in no way an expert – but as I’m going through the same process of trying to set up a ribber for the first time with my Brother 950 – I thought I would pass on what I’ve learnt so far.

1) Check your sponge bar on the 950. Make sure there is no “give” on the needles ie. they don’t bounce up an down when you press down on them.

2) Check the alignment of the needles on the main bed and the ribber so that they are directly opposite each other when the swing knob is set to 5 and the pitch lever is set to P for pitch.
3)Check the height of the gap between the ribber and the main bed.

For points 2) and 3) the manual that comes with the ribber is not much use. There is a good article on ebay reviews about adjusting brother ribbers along with photos (http://reviews.ebay.co.uk/KNITTING-MACHINES-PART-2-ADJUSTING-A-BROTHER-RIBBER_W0QQugidZ10000000006613323). There is also an excellent article by Anne Croucher in the Yahoo group KnittingMachines on how to adjust a Brother ribber.

Hope this is of help
Good luck
Marjie

Hi
I’m in no way an expert – but as I’m going through the same process of trying to set up a ribber for the first time with my Brother 950 – I thought I would pass on what I’ve learnt so far.

1) Check your sponge bar on the 950. Make sure there is no “give” on the needles ie. they don’t bounce up an down when you press down on them.

2) Check the alignment of the needles on the main bed and the ribber so that they are directly opposite each other when the swing knob is set to 5 and the pitch lever is set to P for pitch.
3)Check the height of the gap between the ribber and the main bed.

For points 2) and 3) the manual that comes with the ribber is not much use. There is a good article on ebay reviews about adjusting brother ribbers along with photos (http://reviews.ebay.co.uk/KNITTING-MACHINES-PART-2-ADJUSTING-A-BROTHER-RIBBER_W0QQugidZ10000000006613323). There is also an excellent article by Anne Croucher in the Yahoo group KnittingMachines on how to adjust a Brother ribber.

Hope this is of help
Good luck
Marjie

Hello Mariatherese

I know it is rather a long time since you posted your query but I have just found that Kathleen Kinder has Circular Yoke Patterns in her book “A Resource Book Pattern Supplement”. She has drawn blocks for the Knitradar based on a raglan sleeve pattern. Perhaps it would be possible for you to adapt a raglan pattern if you do not have this book.
To shape the yoke she suggests three decrease rows in between the bands of pattern. To do this she recommends decreasing evenly along the row then removing the knitting on waste yarn. Rehang the stitches on to fewer needles – it’s easier when you have already done the decreases then knit the next section.

I hope this helps a bit.

Regards
Sue.

Hello Mariatherese

I know it is rather a long time since you posted your query but I have just found that Kathleen Kinder has Circular Yoke Patterns in her book “A Resource Book Pattern Supplement”. She has drawn blocks for the Knitradar based on a raglan sleeve pattern. Perhaps it would be possible for you to adapt a raglan pattern if you do not have this book.
To shape the yoke she suggests three decrease rows in between the bands of pattern. To do this she recommends decreasing evenly along the row then removing the knitting on waste yarn. Rehang the stitches on to fewer needles – it’s easier when you have already done the decreases then knit the next section.

I hope this helps a bit.

Regards
Sue.