Machines

Knit Leader L116

I have knitted a swatch on my brother KH260 60 rows and 40 stitches as required but the measurements between these points are to big to choose the relevant settings on the knitleader.

Can this be done or will it only work on standard gauge machines? I would be very grateful for some information.

Thanks
Kath

Hi make a swatch 20 stitches and 30 rows. Knit 15 rows and mark the 11th needle each side knit 15 more rows.
See page 45 in the instruction book. You should have stitch scales provided with the chunky machine which fit the Knitleader.
Sue P
2010-01-18 08:36:53
Thank you for that information its a great help now coming back into machine knitting after 20+ years and have again a chunky and standard machine. I’ve forgotten everything!

I am trying to find what the little green ruler is for – I can remember using it to measure between markers but can not remember how to read it and was it for use with knitleader or not the little grey cells are not working.

Thank you once again for your response

kath61
2010-01-18 19:04:32
Hi Kath
The green ruler is for measuring swatches done on the standard gauge machine – there is a blue one for the chunky.
You line up the end with ‘s’ against the left marked stitch and read off the stitches to 10cm at the other marked stitch.
Similarly for rows with the other side.
For the Knitleader you have to measure 40 sts with a ruler and find the appropriate stitch scale then measure 60 rows and turn the dial on the Knitleader to the corresponding setting.
Hope this helps
Sue
Sue P
2010-01-19 17:37:41
Hi make a swatch 20 stitches and 30 rows. Knit 15 rows and mark the 11th needle each side knit 15 more rows.
See page 45 in the instruction book. You should have stitch scales provided with the chunky machine which fit the Knitleader.
Sue P
2010-01-18 08:36:53
Thank you for that information its a great help now coming back into machine knitting after 20+ years and have again a chunky and standard machine. I’ve forgotten everything!

I am trying to find what the little green ruler is for – I can remember using it to measure between markers but can not remember how to read it and was it for use with knitleader or not the little grey cells are not working.

Thank you once again for your response

kath61
2010-01-18 19:04:32
Hi Kath
The green ruler is for measuring swatches done on the standard gauge machine – there is a blue one for the chunky.
You line up the end with ‘s’ against the left marked stitch and read off the stitches to 10cm at the other marked stitch.
Similarly for rows with the other side.
For the Knitleader you have to measure 40 sts with a ruler and find the appropriate stitch scale then measure 60 rows and turn the dial on the Knitleader to the corresponding setting.
Hope this helps
Sue
Sue P
2010-01-19 17:37:41

Beret

Hi Susan
I have adapted my pattern that was published in the April 2009 issue of MKM.
It uses 4 ply yarn (50g acrylic).
You need card 3 or Brother card 2s – one that will select alternate needles in 1×1 rib.
I had to have the needle to the left of centre on the Main Bed in work and arrange the rib accordingly.
It’s worth doing a dummy run to make sure alternate needles select every 3 or 4 rows (depending on the punchcard used).
Beret measures 10″ across.

Cast on 168 needles hang comb and weights.
Knit 2 circular rows.
Knit 20 rows at a fairly tight tension.
Inc. 1 st at Right on Ribber. This gives a knitted st at each end of every row.
Set Main Carriage to read card and knit 1 row.
CAR reset RC 000 set Main Carr to Tuck in both directions.
Tension 5/5 or higher knit 60 rows tuck. More rows here will give a bigger beret.
Tension 3/3 knit 10 rows.
Transfer Main Bed sts to Ribber needles which already have a stitch.
Empty needles to NWP.
Tension 3 knit 10 rows – the stitches should knit ok because of the weight on the ribber comb.
Tension 7 knit 1 row.
Remove on waste yarn and latch through loops of last row knitted in MY.
Join seam.
Make a twisted cord and thread through the last row at top of beret. I find a cord is stronger for pulling up the crown. Push the top edge inside the beret as you pull the cord and tie it off securely.
I hope this gives you a start
Regards
Sue

Sue P
2010-01-31 08:39:51
Hi Susan
I have adapted my pattern that was published in the April 2009 issue of MKM.
It uses 4 ply yarn (50g acrylic).
You need card 3 or Brother card 2s – one that will select alternate needles in 1×1 rib.
I had to have the needle to the left of centre on the Main Bed in work and arrange the rib accordingly.
It’s worth doing a dummy run to make sure alternate needles select every 3 or 4 rows (depending on the punchcard used).
Beret measures 10″ across.

Cast on 168 needles hang comb and weights.
Knit 2 circular rows.
Knit 20 rows at a fairly tight tension.
Inc. 1 st at Right on Ribber. This gives a knitted st at each end of every row.
Set Main Carriage to read card and knit 1 row.
CAR reset RC 000 set Main Carr to Tuck in both directions.
Tension 5/5 or higher knit 60 rows tuck. More rows here will give a bigger beret.
Tension 3/3 knit 10 rows.
Transfer Main Bed sts to Ribber needles which already have a stitch.
Empty needles to NWP.
Tension 3 knit 10 rows – the stitches should knit ok because of the weight on the ribber comb.
Tension 7 knit 1 row.
Remove on waste yarn and latch through loops of last row knitted in MY.
Join seam.
Make a twisted cord and thread through the last row at top of beret. I find a cord is stronger for pulling up the crown. Push the top edge inside the beret as you pull the cord and tie it off securely.
I hope this gives you a start
Regards
Sue

Sue P
2010-01-31 08:39:51

Junies

Where do I go from here? The ribber 850 looks okay and the sponge bar is free and all looks okay. The 950i sponge bar looks as thought it is stuck and the needle heads look dirty or even perhaps rusty. Can anyone give me any advice on what to do now. I live in West Yorkshire.

I probably can’t help you with your problem but I am a machine knitter in Dewsbury West Yorkshire and are looking for other machine knitters in the area to keep in touch with. Where abouts in West Yorkshire are you? I have a brother KH830 and ribber. Also a brother convertable which I have not used yet. I am new to the internet so don’t expect miracles.

Susan E Johnson

susan@knitting
2009-12-01 20:13:06
Hi June

I am sorry I have not replied to your emails. My computer crashed and I lost all emails and address book. I enjoyed our contact and would like to start again. Please contact me if you can. I have written a letter to go in the March issue trying to get back in contact with you. Now I have found your letter again on the magazine site. Love to hear from you again.

Susan E Johnson

susan@knitting
2010-01-16 21:15:29
I probably can’t help you with your problem but I am a machine knitter in Dewsbury West Yorkshire and are looking for other machine knitters in the area to keep in touch with. Where abouts in West Yorkshire are you? I have a brother KH830 and ribber. Also a brother convertable which I have not used yet. I am new to the internet so don’t expect miracles.

Susan E Johnson

susan@knitting
2009-12-01 20:13:06
Hi June

I am sorry I have not replied to your emails. My computer crashed and I lost all emails and address book. I enjoyed our contact and would like to start again. Please contact me if you can. I have written a letter to go in the March issue trying to get back in contact with you. Now I have found your letter again on the magazine site. Love to hear from you again.

Susan E Johnson

susan@knitting
2010-01-16 21:15:29

Get in touch

I use to machine knit 30-40 years ago and now I have time I bought a secod hand Jones KH588, with the 8 push button patterning. I would love to write to someone who uses a similar machine.

Thanks
Janet

Probably the brush wheels on the sinker plate are catching the yarn. If it has not been used in a long while it probably needs a sponge bar. The best machine I have come across in 40 years for plain knitting.
David Toft
2009-12-06 14:29:15
Probably the brush wheels on the sinker plate are catching the yarn. If it has not been used in a long while it probably needs a sponge bar. The best machine I have come across in 40 years for plain knitting.
David Toft
2009-12-06 14:29:15

5 X 5 rib

Could anyone please help me as I am having trouble understanding my manual as how to knit 5X5 rib. I have no trouble doing ordinary 1X1 rib or 2X2 rib but doing this type of rib is leaving me really frustrated…

Many thanks Jane

Hi Jane
Cast on in full needle rib. After knitting the circular rows *transfer stitches from four needles on ribber to main bed. Leave next stitch on each bed then transfer next four needles from main bed to ribber. Repeat from * across all needles.
Hope this helps
Sue P
2010-01-18 08:36:53
Hi Jane
Cast on in full needle rib. After knitting the circular rows *transfer stitches from four needles on ribber to main bed. Leave next stitch on each bed then transfer next four needles from main bed to ribber. Repeat from * across all needles.
Hope this helps
Sue P
2010-01-18 08:36:53

Zippy 90 Sponge bar

I just got my Knitmaster Zippy 90 back after some years in a friends loft. The sponge bar looks to be just the sponge part with no metal bar. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement. I am keen to start using it again now I have retired. The Zippy 90 is a light weight chunky machine with a plastic bed and not full size having fewer needles.

Hi I had this problem too. I was unable to find a supplier for the sponge bar but I did use foam insulation tape to replace the sponge. This was about 2 years ago and it’s still going strong!

Best wishes
Carole

Carole
2009-11-08 11:24:50
Thanks Carole I’ll remember that tip. I eventually managed to find one from UndyYarns.co.uk although it was not on their website they had them in stock.

regards
Lyn

Moogie1947
2009-11-14 09:10:34
Hi I had this problem too. I was unable to find a supplier for the sponge bar but I did use foam insulation tape to replace the sponge. This was about 2 years ago and it’s still going strong!

Best wishes
Carole

Carole
2009-11-08 11:24:50
Thanks Carole I’ll remember that tip. I eventually managed to find one from UndyYarns.co.uk although it was not on their website they had them in stock.

regards
Lyn

Moogie1947
2009-11-14 09:10:34

Holding Position

Can someone please explain how I use the holding position on the Silver Reed. I thought I needed to bring the relevant needles all the way out, but when I did that the carriage knitted the stitches back in!

I am a SR knitter but not familiar with the 260 I use an 840. However I am sure that all SRs are similar.

You still have to put the required needles to UWP BUT then you have to set the Russel levers so that the KM does not knit them back. these are the 2 markers at the front of the carriage above the fabric presser. They are marked l and ll. l holds all UWP needles and ll knits all needles back.

ozmartian
2010-06-03 19:39:09
In addition to pulling all your needles forward into the “D” position you need to put your “Russell levers” to position 1. This stops your needles knitting back in. Position 11 is what I suspect your Russel Levers are set at now.

Your “Russel Levers” are on the carriage just above the arm at the front right and left.

Hope this helps

Glenys Elaine
2009-11-08 11:24:50
I am a SR knitter but not familiar with the 260 I use an 840. However I am sure that all SRs are similar.

You still have to put the required needles to UWP BUT then you have to set the Russel levers so that the KM does not knit them back. these are the 2 markers at the front of the carriage above the fabric presser. They are marked l and ll. l holds all UWP needles and ll knits all needles back.

ozmartian
2010-06-03 19:39:09
In addition to pulling all your needles forward into the “D” position you need to put your “Russell levers” to position 1. This stops your needles knitting back in. Position 11 is what I suspect your Russel Levers are set at now.

Your “Russel Levers” are on the carriage just above the arm at the front right and left.

Hope this helps

Glenys Elaine
2009-11-08 11:24:50

Sponge bar

The silly thing is when I took the old one out the hard part was on top and the sponge underneath. But the sponge part had all the needle marking on it, so should I put the new one in the same way with the hard bit on top. The other problem is that I thought the sponge bar would solve is that when I put my needles to the D position they all raise up at the back and I can’t knit with them like it. Any suggestions?

Hello
The retaining bar goes in with the sponge facing down on top of the needles to hold them flat to the needle bed.
Hope this helps
AndeeKnits
Andee Knits
2009-08-13 14:33:04
Yes you are correct the sponge bar should be metal up and sponge down. You are probably having the problem of the needles rising at the back because you have not held the needles down when putting the sponge bar in. I usually use a small rule and gradually push the sponge bar along pressing down on the needles at the same time. I hope this solves your problem. Kind regards. Linda
Linda Collins
2009-08-13 14:33:04
Hi this may sound silly too but are you putting the sponge bar under the needles or on top. I ask as you seem surprised that the needle markings are on the sponge they should be as the sponge bar goes over the top of them. You need to press them down with one hand passing the sponge bar through the gap and on top of the needles. As you go along you need to keep pressing the needles down or the bar will not go any further unless they are. This may be the reason that they are essentially trying to come out when you put them in D. Not sure if this is the solution to your problem but hope it helps.
Best wishes
Carole
Carole
2009-08-13 14:33:04
Hello
The retaining bar goes in with the sponge facing down on top of the needles to hold them flat to the needle bed.
Hope this helps
AndeeKnits
Andee Knits
2009-08-13 14:33:04
Yes you are correct the sponge bar should be metal up and sponge down. You are probably having the problem of the needles rising at the back because you have not held the needles down when putting the sponge bar in. I usually use a small rule and gradually push the sponge bar along pressing down on the needles at the same time. I hope this solves your problem. Kind regards. Linda
Linda Collins
2009-08-13 14:33:04
Hi this may sound silly too but are you putting the sponge bar under the needles or on top. I ask as you seem surprised that the needle markings are on the sponge they should be as the sponge bar goes over the top of them. You need to press them down with one hand passing the sponge bar through the gap and on top of the needles. As you go along you need to keep pressing the needles down or the bar will not go any further unless they are. This may be the reason that they are essentially trying to come out when you put them in D. Not sure if this is the solution to your problem but hope it helps.
Best wishes
Carole
Carole
2009-08-13 14:33:04